Welcome to Tortoise Tales

 

Statue in Belgium Neuf Porte

Frances & Tortoise

Frances and Bernard Platman are on their extended gap year, which began in October 2003.  This Blog was inspired by two motorhomes who had  fallen in love and were reunited five and a half years later.

We are continually updating the blog, and now (at time of writing this) we have been adventuring in Europe for 8 years. Our current project with this blog is to inset photos, and update the gaps.

To start from the beginning, please go to the very first story of my travel journal ‘The Trail Begins’ which you will find at the bottom of October 2003 as Blogs work by having the latest posts at the top and the first posts at the very bottom. However I have not been able as yet to complete all my stories and there are gaps. The side bar lists the months when I have entered stories so keep an eye on it when you log into my Blog to see just what has been updated-

Stand Alone Tent Room

 

We had decided that as we had a double pitch and intended to stay on the Ria Formosa Camp-site at Cabanas, on the eastern Algarve in Portugal, for a while, we would put up our stand alone tent-room. It has been quite some time since we last put it up and our memories and strength are not as great as they used to be.

There had been some torrential storms with amazing lightning, thunder and fierce winds which had slowed down our progress in this task. But even without the inclement weather, we would have had to do things in stages. We “aint” so strong as we used to be and which colour pole do we insert first, also how many pegs do you think are needed to keep it secure? Bernard’s knees are dodgy and all that kneeling whilst banging in the pegs results in a three day task. Other people were putting up there tents and awnings in a few hours and were somewhat amused by us. “Not finished yet, then?” “Congratulations, you managed it this year!”

It was well worth the effort, though we vowed never to do it again. I could use my computer sitting in it whilst Bernard was on his in the motor-home, or I could tinkle away on my keyboard with my earphones on, so that no-one would hear me play. Bernard said they could probably hear me singing though I do not believe I was.

We stored our fruit and veg and extra bottles in it and, as the weather was somewhat changeable, house the table and chairs for the nights and rainy days. It gives us an extra room to our 7 metre long motor-home. A very useful addition, but will we ever put it up again?

Tavira and Olhao

 

The Ria Formosa Camp-site is very close to the train station and bright and early, we caught the train to Tavira, just a short ride along the Portuguese Algarve coast. By showing our driving licences we were allowed to purchase tickets at the pensioners’ rate.

Having been to Tavira on a number of occasions it was really just remembering the layout. It is a pleasant town to walk around. It was founded in pre Roman days and has always been an important fishing port. One of the two bridges that span the river Gilao is Roman. After the earthquake in 1755 it was rebuilt and many of the 18th century buildings remain, albeit that some are in dire need of loving care.

After a pleasant walk rekindling old memories we caught the train to Olhao, which is the largest fishing port on the Algarve. It has an attractive river front with gardens and promenade, together with a superb market for fish and vegetables, it is a busy working town. We ate lunch, fish of course, at a restaurant on the front and after walking it off, we returned by train to Cabanas.

We returned to Olhao on a Saturday, with some friends we had made on the camp-site, who had a car and gave us a lift. This time we took advantage of the lift to buy lots of fish, fruit and vegetables from the market. Saturday is also the main market for clothes, household goodies and souvenirs and stretches along the promenade. Even off season it is very busy with locals and visitors.

We revisited both Tavira and Olhao a number of times during our stay on the eastern Algarve.

Ayamonte on Spanish/Portuguese border.

 

The drive from Albir, near Benidorm was beautiful as we had decided not to take the coastal route but go inland. We drove through Elche and on to Guadix, which is a town with Troglodyte caves that people are still living in. Although having visited and looked at the cave houses three years ago we thought we would have another look, but, we took a different road out of town west towards Portugal and missed the main Troglodyte village, only seeing just a few random cave-houses, on the hillside, as we drove.

The road got higher and higher, over four and a half thousand feet/ one and a half thousand metres. We were now in the Granada district and the mountains around us were even higher and snow capped with ski slopes. The sun shone, casting gorgeous colours on the mountain tops and through the leaves of the autumnal trees. A truly spectacular journey.

It was late afternoon when we arrived at Ayamonte, the border town in Spain to Portugal. It was too late for us to cross the bridge over the Rio Guardiano that separates the two countries as it was getting dark. We made for a fish restaurant that we had frequented last time we were in the area, that served amazing fish and as much as you can eat, which also had a large car-park next to it. To our dismay it was closed for refurbishment. We parked up anyway and I cooked in the motor-home.

It was a Friday night and I said to Bernard that perhaps they use this car-park as a market on Saturdays. Bernard got out to see if there were any notices about parking. No, it seemed that it was going to be OK. Never-the-less, I set the alarm for early the next morning. It was such a noisy night as parking was on the main road out of the town to the border and cars sped up and down it all night.

Before the alarm went off, I heard a lot more noise outside and peering through the window saw white vans arriving, parking and disgorging their goods! Bernard and I got dressed at super quick speed, and without waiting to make breakfast, we sped off before we were hemmed in, unable to move until the boot-sale (for that is what it was) had finished and the vans had left.

It wasn’t until we were in sight of the beautiful bridge that spans the river that we stopped laughing.

Innsbruk

Innsbruck: Where the golden roof glistens on a cloudy day

Golden Roof Innsbruk

Glistening Golden Roof Innsbruk

It wasn’t raining at 10am, when we caught the free bus from outside the campsite, but it looked like it was very threatening so we were suitably dressed. The bus took us into Netters village and still using our free bus ticket we caught the second bus into Innsbruck bus station. Read the full post »

The Fridge Has Given Up Again.

Cavalino Lido de Jesolo

A Burnt Out Fuse-box.

We left Lazise and drove through to Venice.  Bernard and I planned to stay at the Lido di Jesolo with Lara for about five days  and then drive her to Bassano di Grappa, which is north of Venice, where she was setting up a photographic project; ”Boxing Bassano”.

As we approached the Venice area, Lara and I could smell burning.  We sniffed and sniffed, yes definitely burning. On arriving at the Miramare campsite at Punto Sabbioni, in the district of Cavalino, on the Lido di Jesolo, and parking, we discovered the fridge had blown once again, but this time the electrics were not working either. The campsite manager told us of a large camping accessory and repair shop not too far away, which we had in fact passed and had noted it’s position. Read the full post »

Lido de Jesolo

A Typical Italian Resort

The fuse-box for the motor-home had not arrived yet, Bernard’s computer seemed to have a virus, I had done the washing at the campsite launderette and we were fed up. Time to take a bus into Jesolo for the afternoon.

Jesolo Beach Scene

Waiting for Tourists, Jesolo

Jesolo is the main town on the island and a very popular seaside resort. It has a main road of designer shops and a long promenade along the seafront backed by hundreds of hotels.  Each  hotel has it’s own pitch on the beach with sunshades and loungers, each laid out in rows like soldiers on parade. Being mid season, not all the umbrellas were opened and represented upright lances. Read the full post »

Venice Has A Very Secret Garden.

Venice from Guidecca

Venice from The Isle of Guidecca

Guidecca´s Garden Is Too Secret

Lara was being met outside the station at Venice  by a hire car to take her to Bassano di Grappa. This had been arranged due to a train strike. We accompanied her from Punto Sabbioni as she had her camera equipment with her as well as a suitcase of clothes. This was fine by us as we could spend another day in Venice.

We still had our travel tickets for hopping on and off boats or buses. Today was to be a day exploring yet more of this area. First stop was Guidecca Island, which lies opposite the main Venice island. It was so named as once it was where the Jewish population lived before being forced to downsize in the very first Ghetto on main Venice. Read the full post »

Islands of Venice

Venice from Guidecca

Venive from The Isle of Guidecca

Taking advantage of our travel passes we took the ferry from Punto Sabbioni to Burano; a very pretty small island with colourful houses and a very busy main square. Yes, it is a tourist island with gift shops everywhere selling lace items supposedly made on the island and glass items made on the nearby Murano Island. Read the full post »

Venice.

Typical Venice Canal Scene

Typical Venice Canal Scene

Whilst we were waiting for the new fuse-box for the motorhome, we took advantage of our time with Lara to visit Venice in Italy. The ferry port at Punto Sabbioni on the Lido di Jesolo is just a short distance from Camping Miramare and having purchased a three day ticket which entitles us to hop on and off buses and water buses/ferries, we planned to take full advantage of them. Read the full post »

Verona

Romeo, Wherefore Art Thou in Verona?

We had arranged to meet Lara at Verona station in Northern Italy and as she had luggage and a heavy camera bag, we took the motorhome and parked it at the designated parking spot for motorhomes, not far from the station.

Having met her and returned to the parking lot, I made lunch, and then we set off once again into town. First stop the Arena, but as the Opera season had not yet started, there wasn’t the spectacle of the gigantic scenery, which, when we last visited the city, was stored all around the outside of the Arena’s walls. This in itself was worth the visit let alone the amazing Opera performance. Read the full post »

Lazise, Lake Garda.

Municipal Campsite At Lazise Is A Great Place To Stay.

We have stayed at Lazise Municipal Campsite at Lake Garda in Italy before; last time we had to leave as they were closing it down for the winter at the end of October.  The staff are very friendly and helpful and it is in a great location, being at the end of the town, right on the lakeside with beautiful rose gardens outside. The perfume wafts into the well kept but small campsite every evening and a stroll along the promenade is bliss. Read the full post »

Florence is still superb.

Camping Michealangelo

View From Our Pitch

Camping Michealangelo

With the motorhome repaired, we set off once again not knowing quite where we would end up! Before long we decided to revisit Florence in Tuscany and made our way to the campsite at Piazza Michelangelo.  The position we were given this time was not as good as previous visits, when we had spectacular views over the rooftops of Florence. Read the full post »

Trigano At Cusano, Tuscany.

Trigano Are Great People To Do Business With.

Our main reason for going into Italy was to see if we could have some repairs done to the motorhome.  The manufacturer, Trigano, has its’ factory at Cusano near San Giminiagno in Tuscany.

After leaving Milan we made our way to the factory and went into the office early the next morning to see if they could accommodate our repairs.  We had been there twice before and they had been more than helpful. This time was no different. Although they couldn’t book us in for the same day we made a date for ten days ahead.  They went round the vehicle making notes as to what needed doing so that they could have the correct parts in stock ready.

When we returned on the specified date they set to and two and a half hours later all was completed and we were on our way.

What more could we ask for?

Thank you Trigano.

City news: Rome now charges to visit the Forum.

When we last visited Rome we wandered around freely; there was so much to see and day bus tickets are a waste of money as everywhere is within walking distance.

Our trip to Rome this time, once again on the train from Orvieto, awakened our memories.  It was a bit of a shock to see that the Forum now charges an entry fee.  There were not the same amount of tourists in the enclosed area. We sat and rested our weary legs at the entrance gate and then we espied a notice saying that European pensioners have free entry. With free tickets it seemed even more exciting to walk over ancient pathways!

We were truly shattered by the time we arrived back at our motorhome but it had been a very enjoyable day. Rome is still magic.

City news: Orvieto still magnificent.

Having parked the motorhome at the Sosta at Orvieto Scalo that afternoon we took the funicular up to Orvieto and caught the mini bus to Piazza di Popolo. A slow walk around confirmed our memories that it is a very special town. The Duomo is one of the best in Italy, it’s gold encrusted facade and interior of the cathedral are breath-taking and the medieval sections of this hilltop town in Umbria transfer you back to centuries ago.

We had telephoned and e-mailed some old friends and luckily were able to meet up with some of them over the few days we stayed in the area. A visit to a lakeside restaurant for lunch at Bolseno with one couple was a particularly pleasant afternoon.

Italian Sostas: Orvieto great for Rome too.

After having had excellent and courteous attention at the Trigano factory, near Poggibonsi in Tuscany, Italy, in the morning and arrangements made to have repairs carried out on the motorhome for 23rd May, we made our way to Orvieto in Umbria to visit old friends.

Naturally, we, parked our vehicle at the Sosta, the Italian equivalent to a authorised car park for Motorhomes.  This Sosta, at Orvieto Scalo, is run by Renzo, who has  made this into a mini campsite, having installed spotless toilets and very efficient shower facilities, washing-up area and washing and drying machines, with each plot surrounded by some well manicured grass, trees and bushes. It is positioned right by the escalator to the station which has fast, direct lines to Rome and Florence and the funicular to Orvieto itself.

Renzo greeted us warmly and we reminisced in our broken Italian about previous visits. We have stayed there a number of times since 2004 and found it so easy to hop on the train which is one hour from Rome and two hours from Florence, with the knowledge that our little home on wheels was safe in this guarded parking site.

The only downside to the Sosta is that it is positioned between the two railway lines; the commuter and freight train line and the fast bullet train line, with trains whizzing by all day and night. However one soon gets used to the noise!

If any of you decide to park there, please give Renzo regards from Frances and Bernard.

Jewish interest: Israel Independence Day barbecue in Milan.

The owners of the Milan campsite, in Italy, are  an Israeli family.  We discussed with them in the morning where the Kosher butcher was in the town and were told to go in the morning as they might be closing early as today was “Yom Hatzmaut”, Israel Independence Day and there were to be a number of celebrations-

It was a really hot day and after we had been to the butcher and had a snack in a Kosher restaurant nearby we decided to take the bus back before the meat went off!

On arriving back at the campsite we were invited to join the family for a barbecue that they were holding that evening.

It was a really enjoyable evening with three families totaling sixteen including children and ourselves eating, drinking and talking in three languages.

Last year we joined in a barbecue picnic on the side of the Rhine at Cologne for another Jewish Festival, “Lag B’Omer” and had a great time until it rained. Where next and what festival?

Campsite news: Camping Milan still a good stop.

We have stopped at the campsite for Milan a few times before and we were greeted like old friends. It is a convenient site for visiting Milan as buses are nearby and it is a simple  and cheap way to journey into town, especially if you are planning to stay more than one day as the two day bus pass can really save you money.

There had been quite a number of improvements to the site over the last few years including a snack bar and extra shower and toilet facilities. We soon made ourselves at home and phoned our friend to make arrangements for the next day.

The next morning we set off taking several buses just for the fun of it and had a really enjoyable day meandering around Milan.  Last time we came they were busy renovating the Duomo but this time, although there was scaffolding on the side of the building, we were able to enter the cathedral and take in once again the immense glory of this magnificent church.  We sat in a pew resting our weary feet and soaking up all around us.

Later that evening we joined our friend and had a great evening reminiscing about thirty-five years ago.

On the road: Gotthard Tunnel is long when you are tired!

After leaving the Metz campsite we drove through to Mulhaus.  What a beautiful journey that was.  Spectacular scenery kept us oohing and aahing and we stopped several times along the way to take in all around us.

We planned to stop for the night on the French side of the Gotthard Tunnel but as the evening drew on, we both saw a notice that stated “Gotthard Tunnel – 17.5 kilometres”. Bernard said that we must stop before we get there as he was too tired to drive through a long tunnel at twilight as it might be dark when we come out the other side.

Just as he was saying that we entered the tunnel! Oops, too late. We stopped as soon as we could on the other side on the motorway Aire with a very tired Bernard.  Although it was quite noisy he was asleep in no time!

Campsite news: Revisiting Metz.

It is a year since we last visited Metz in Eastern France, when we were on our way home to a dying mother.  Then we stayed outside the campsite at the Aire and were not in a great mood for sightseeing.

Today we stayed in the campsite which is right on the river, is well  appointed and offers Wifi facilities. The staff were also extremely helpful and cheerful.

A leisurely walk around the town enforced our view that Metz is a really beautiful town. We also discovered the Synagogue and a square dedicated to those that lost their lives in the second World War.

We were really glad that we had revisited this little gem of a place.

On the road: Binche in Belgium.

We arrived at Dunquerke  in France at 1.30 a.m. and parked at the ferry waiting area for the rest of the night.  It really is a good place to park before boarding or after arriving at the port. 

Then…

We travelled through Belgium once again.

Plenty of sunshine and no rain.

We stopped at Binche in the district Hainault.

“But that’s in Essex”, I’m sure you thought.

It is a medieval town with twenty-two towers.

A walk around its ramparts could take hours.

Parking Des Pastures is where we stayed the night.

The sky was clear, the weather bright.

We did enjoy our mini stop

Also the tea and pastry in a cake shop.

It is a town of art, history and folklore.

If there had been time we would have seen more,

But we had to get along the way

To travel through to Metz that day.

Poem to my granddaughter: point-to-point.

Dear Rheannon,

We’ve come back from Aunty La,

It wasn’t near but not too far.

She took us to some pretty places

And even a day at the horse races.

Point-to-point is what it’s called.

It was so cold we were not enthralled.

The wind it whistled across the grass,

Especially when the horses pass.

They jumped the fences and some fell over,

Tossing their riders in the clover.

No jockey was hurt, thank goodness for that,

They were well padded and wore hard hat.

We had taken a picnic to eat “al fresco”.

No we did not buy it all from Tesco.

Whilst we sat and shivered as we ate

The food from off the plastic plate

All we wanted was to be warm

Like a crocus in a corm.

We didn’t wait ´til the end of the day,

The wind was crisp and the sky was grey,

So we left the Duke of Beaufort’s land,

Which was vast and very grand

And set off back to Lara’s  place,

With red noses on our face.

Not clip on ones, but you know that.

Granddad wore his furry hat.

Now we are in our tin home

Until we decide once more to roam.

Come and see us, we hope, soon.

It’s not large  but there’s plenty of room.

Am looking forward to a reply.

all my love

Grandma Frances

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Campsite news: Moreton in Marsh is great for Cotswolds.

We had a car load of our daughter Lara’s belongings from our garage to take to her new abode at Blockley in the Cotswolds, but as she has not been able to set up her second bedroom yet we also took the motorhome.  I drove the car and Bernard the “Roller" and we had arranged to stay at the campsite at Moreton in Marsh, just five miles from Lara.

After booking in and setting up, we drove  the car to her house to unload her “goodies”. It was pouring with rain of course.

The next day was miserable weather too, and, as we had not arranged to see Lara, it was spent at Moreton. The campsite is large, nicely set out, with excellent shower blocks and helpful, pleasant staff.  It is only a short walk into Moreton, which has pretty shops and a market.

Moreton in Marsh is in a very central position, near to Stow on the Wold, Broadway, and other pretty Cotswold villages and towns.  There are buses (even going to Stratford upon Avon) and  trains to London.

All in all, a good stop for visiting the area, which no doubt we shall use again.

 

Food news: the fish were jumping!

The fish stalls at the harbour at Calais  are always a must stop place for us if we are returning to England. Today was no exception.

There were only a few stalls open when we arrived there, but how many do you need? The one we chose had some lovely little plaice and larger ones and we chose a selection.  They were still jumping, even when the assistant chopped off the heads!  No argument about their freshness then! She packed them in ice and we put them into our insulated picnic bag.

The ice had not melted when we returned to England the next day and the family enjoyed the most tasty, succulent fish that we had eaten for a very long time.

It is almost worth taking a trip over as the price was really good too!

Bus trips: Sluis is pretty even in the rain.

It was a cold dull morning and we decided to take the bus into Ostend, but unfortunately missed it by five minutes.  The next one was due in an hour and we were too cold to wait around so we crossed the road and took the first bus to Brugges which came after just waiting fifteen minutes.

We then chatted to the assistant in the Tourist Information Office about decent reasonably priced restaurants and she told us about a little town just inside Holland where she goes to eat. As it was possible to take advantage of our bus card (10Euros for 10 trips), we decided to go for it. It was too cold to wander around  Brugges  or Ghent (another town on our list) and a pleasant bus ride suited us well.

By the time we arrived in Sluis, after a very interesting bus trip through the countryside, it was starting to rain. The town is on a canal with a large working windmill and many, many restaurants and tourist shops. It was very pretty, even in the rain.

We had an enjoyable meal, but it was pouring when we emerged from the restaurant, so we decided to take the next bus back to Brugges.

On alighting from our bus we noticed that the next bus to Jabbeke was in five minutes so we stayed put at the stop to catch it.

It was not only pouring but extremely windy when we got off.  The Pharmacy clock said it was 2degrees Celsius! By the time we had walked the fifteen minutes back to the motorhome, we were soaking wet, freezing cold and very exhausted from battling against the wind.

Enough was enough we said, and decided that the next day we would leave and make our way back to the UK.

Jewish news: a kosher meal in Antwerp.

Belgium really looks after its elderly people, even visitors. After taking the bus from Jabbeke into Brugges, we decided to take a train trip into Antwerp, discovering, that as we were Senior Citizens, we could take advantage of the reduced fair. That was quite a bonus.

Our first stop was of course the Tourist Information Office, where we gathered more leaflets and had an interesting chat with the helpful assistant.

It is many years since our last visit to Antwerp and we really couldn’t remember much although we had visited museums and watched paper being restored. The trip last time to the diamond area was interesting.  The jewellers were being re-housed and were in temporary cabins on stilts. The diamond museum was fascinating  and we had eaten an enormous meal in Hoffy’s Kosher restaurant. What would we find this time?

The jewellers were now in proper shops and try as I could, there was no persuading Bernard to buy me another diamond ring! We found a Kosher butcher and bought some meat for the motorhome and some charcuterie, and then managed to find Hoffy’s.

It looked a little different to last time, but we decided to have another meal there. The helpings were not as large but the owner said that people do not eat such large amounts now, which we agreed was true. It was more than sufficient for us and very tasty.

Antwerp has some grand architecture which we stood and marvelled  at.  The war had not decimated the city, thank goodness.

It was a very pleasant day trip, we decided as we took our train and bus back to Jabbeke.

Poem to Granddaughter: a chocolate E-mail

Dear Rheannon,

We are in Belgium now you know,

It’s quite cold although there is no snow.

But there’s chocolate, chocolate everywhere.

Granddad says, “It’s just not fair”.

He cant have some ‘cos he’s too fat,

No chocolate bunny or chocolate cat.

There is so much chocolate that they make,

Chocolate sweeties and chocolate cake.

He looks in windows and goes “Ooh and Ah”.

I won’t let him buy even a chocolate bar.

And that’s the end of my chocolate tale.

Is this the first chocolate e-mail?

City news: Brugges has magnificent architecture.

Traditional Lacemakers Shop

It was a pleasant bus journey into Brugges from Jabbeke. This part of Belgium has very attractive little villages and towns, through which we passed.

The Tourist information Center at Brugges had changed somewhat since our last visit some years back.  It was now a large modern glass building. We gathered our leaflets and asked lots of questions from the helpful assistant before setting off on our walk around the town.

We had visited museums in the past, so today was to be spent looking at the architecture. It was bitterly cold, but we were dressed up warm. However, looking at buildings means lots of standing around, shivering.

In the past we had not walked down the pedestrian shopping road. Perhaps it had not been made traffic free then. We were amazed to find the most beautiful Art Nouveau shopping arcade.  The outside facade gave us a hint, but once inside we just stood and gazed in wonder. It had been refurbished sympathetically and it was beautiful. It was well worth going in to get warm!

Listening to the clock with its unusual chimes and watching the horses taking the tourists on trips in the open topped coaches whilst we sat and munched our picnic in Market Square just added to the pleasures of the day.

Campsite news: Jabbeke, good for visiting the cities.

The Acsi campsite book didn’t give us much hope when looking for a campsite that was open in February and convenient for visiting the beautiful cities of Brugges, Ghent,and Antwerp in Belgium.  However, they recommended Kleine Strand at Jabbeke, with buses running from the centre of town to Ostend  and Brugges which is open all year and offers 7 nights for the cost of 6 off season.

Read the full post »

On the road: Beatles talk in Paris.

We were staying  on a campsite at Villevaude, about 26 kilometres from Paris, France, but the transport from there to Paris was diabolical and rather expensive. However we decided to give it a try for one day. After all so near and yet so far.

It was a short walk into the village to the bus stop and we waited for the hourly bus. It took us to a nearby suburban railway station but travelled for over half an hour around the villages.  Then we took the train into Paris, another  three-quarters of an hour, arriving at Haussman/St Lazare at midday.

We had a pleasant stroll around Paris, looking at the great architecture but no time to take in a museum, as we would have to start making our way back by 4.30 pm, to be able to catch the last  bus to the village.

The guy, at the information kiosk at Haussman station, when asked if he spoke English replied, “Only beatles talk”. Naturally we said, ” Help us if you can, we need a ticket to ride!”  There ensued the most bizarre conversation, with words like “Don’t ride in the yellow submarine”, but we did get the details as to which platform to take.

Our final words to the guy were “We love you yeh yeh yeh!”

Well, thet kept us giggling all the way back on train and bus.

Campsite news: Soissons a great little town.

 

Having left the campsite at Villevaude near Paris in France, we decided to make our way to Belgium, but, as is usual with us, we made a detour and stopped off in Soissons in Picardy for a short break for refreshments.  The Aires book stated there was a free Aire here, but we couldn’t find it. We took the riverside road looking out for it without success, so we stopped a council gardener working on the pretty parkland adjacent to the riverside. He had no idea where it was but directed us to the campsite just a few hundred meters along.  Perhaps we should stay the night as it was now mid-afternoon?

We were greeted by three very friendly and helpful wardens who directed us to our pitch and explained about this municipal site and the town itself.  The campsite was well kept, the toilet facilities immaculate and modern and there was free Wifi! Serendipity! All this for 13Euro per night, what more could we ask for?

After settling ourselves in, we took a walk into town along the riverside, passing the Aire we had missed when driving in.  It was by the Nautical centre and not too well sign posted from the direction we had  driven in from.

The Tourist Information Centre provided us with local maps and blurb and we learnt that Soissons is known for its butter beans.  There was a Gothic cathedral and a ruined Gothic Abbey they recommended us to visit.  As we had no idea how far these sights were we decided to buy a book of 10 bus tickets for 10Euro, so that we could hop on and off buses.

The next morning was market day and we walked into town again, discovering that the market was near to the Cathedral. At a vegetable stall we purchased salsify and black radish.  We had never eaten salsify, which when cooked and peeled and eaten with a sauce is rather like asparagus in taste.

It was a small local market and we soon had taken it all in and had bought cheeses which we had not intended to do, and then proceeded to look for the Chinese restaurant we had passed when driving into town the day before.  After walking for an hour we arrived at the train station and decided to give up and take the bus back to the campsite, where we slumped onto the bed exhausted.

The next morning we took the bus, which went all around the northeast of town, to the Cathedral. We were amazed to find a Rubens painting that had been restored, having been hidden from the Germans during the war. The centre part of the nave of the cathedral had been blown out but all had been replaced as original.

It was a short walk up the hill to the Abbey which is now just an amazing facade, as the Calvanist Bishop decided to demolish the entire building but the townspeople strongly objected and the front with its two towers has remained.

In the museum adjacent to the Abbey the curator was delighted to have some visitors and gave us a very interesting information about the towns history.

Soissons is a town that we would certainly return to and stay at the campsite, which we highly recommend.

City news: Jewish Museum, Camden.

We were meeting Lara later that afternoon and had some time to spare. What should we do? We were in Camden, North London, so decided to visit the Jewish Museum, where I had been meaning to visit for some time.

It has a very welcoming entrance and pleasant staff on duty, who even made the security check less of a drag. There was a free video exhibition in the entrance lobby which was very cleverly done with screens positioned around and seats available so you could sit and take in what you were viewing. After spending some time there, we paid our money and took the lift to the second floor where there was an excellent exhibition of how and why the Jewish people had found there way to the U.K. over the centuries, the lives they lived once here and of the families they left behind, never to see again . There were many artefacts, photos and voice-overs, and seating in abundance. Seating is so important if you wish to really spend time and take in what is around you.  Staff were on hand to answer any questions too.

We then walked down to the first floor where there was an exhibition of a typical Jewish family’s life throughout the year, explaining about the Sabbath, festivals and Holy Days.

It was all so clearly arranged and interestingly portrayed that you do not have to be Jewish to visit. It is aimed at all ages from small children to adults. Go there to understand more about our religion, whatever you religion. There is also a very inviting Cafe at the entrance, so even if you decide not to visit the museum upstairs you can grab a snack and take in the free ground floor exhibition. 

City news: Pricilla is a great show.

Lara was commissioned to take some photographs backstage at the Palace Theatre, in the heart of London’s theatre land, where Pricilla Queen of the Desert was showing and managed to get us some tickets. What a great show; outrageous amazing costumes, over the top acting, super songs and dancing, and a great fun night out.

We came away with sore throats from singing and laughing and sore hands from clapping. Just what we needed to lift us on a bleak late Autumn night.

If you go, which I recommend you do, don’t expect an in-depth story, just enjoy the fantasy and take it as it comes, which is with a bang.

Thank you Lara for thinking of us.

City news: Olympic Park revisit.

Following our disastrous first visit with the grandchildren to the Olympic park in London’s Stratford in the summer, Bernard had written to complain and we were promised a revisit, not a general weekend visit but to be part of a corporate tour.

Today was the day! We met up with a group who were from a livery company as we joined their bus.  The security was very low key and the tour guide was a London Blue Badge Guide.

Wow, what a difference  a decent guide makes. She was most informative without following a script; answering questions with humour, as we went around on the bus. We thoroughly enjoyed this trip.

It is so bad that the Olympic Authority use guides who are not trained, as per our original guide, as it can give completely the wrong impression and put off future visitors due to adverse comments from disgruntled “customers”.  What a pity the Grandchildren were not with us to see just how good a tour can be with the right guide.

 

London life: those pesky rabbits.

We bought some unusual herbs in pots

To grow and add flavour to our food.

There was grapefruit mint, sweet cecily,

Creeping savory, thyme, oh lots.

They grew so strong outside our door.

I nurtured them with love.

I picked a few bits now and then,

But now they are no more.

The herbs that once were growing tall,

Waiting to be cooked,

Those pesky rabbits that run around

Have eaten one and all.

On the road: Great Tews, Little Tews and Shipston on Stour.

It was a cold grey miserable day but Lara picked us up from Riverside campsite for another foray into the beautiful countryside.

We “oohed” and “aahed”  as we drove around the “chocolate box lid” villages, even though the skies were threatening.

We stopped at Great Tews, which is just entrancing and had lunch in the village pub. Then on to Little Tews and her villages.

Eventually we stopped at Shipston on Stour. This was once a thriving sheep town, hence the name. We enjoyed a tea in the cute cafe before making our way back to Stratford upon Avon.

On the road: a walk around Stratford upon Avon.

We took the 10am taxi-boat from the Riverside campsite along the Avon to Stratford upon Avon city centre.  It is a twenty minute leisurely cruise with a very friendly informative skipper. As we had arrived ahead of time, the skipper took us further up the river as far as the weir, showing us the famous theatre and other sights.

On alighting we made our way to Shakespeare’s birth-house, which is an excellent museum, with superb audio and visual exhibits and guides, dressed in authentic style clothing, giving interesting information and accurate renderings of snippets from some of Shakespeare’s plays.

We walked to the theatre, but it was still being renovated and the smaller theatre was closed in preparation for the oncoming pantomime season. We could see the work in progress in the foyer on the security camera.  So no play for us this time.

After lunch we visited Nash House and New Place with the archaeological dig in the beautiful garden, which had some amazing modern bronze sculptures dotted around. 

Finally, we visited Halls Croft, the home of Shakespeare’s son-in-law, an eminent local physician. Again a very interesting museum. The museum advertised a cafe, where we had a pleasant afternoon tea, only to be told that it is about to be closed due to financial cuts. How sad.

It was too late and it would have been too far for us to walk after such an energetic day to visit Ann Hathaway’s cottage.

We then tried to find our jetty to catch the taxi-boat back to the campsite, but after being somewhat confused to the exact jetty, we arrived just a few moments after it had left and had to wait an hour for the next boat. We took advantage of this glorious crisp autumn afternoon and we sat on a bench thoroughly exhausted.

The journey back was skippered by another man who gave us more information on the riverside houses we passed by.

All in all  a really enjoyable day.

On the road: herbs, road runner pheasants, and Stow on the Wold.

Lara collected us from the Riverside Caravan site near Stratford upon Avon and took us to the cottage where she is staying at Clifford Chambers just a few miles down the road. She is there until the end of October having won this bursary for women writers for time to write.

It was a very quaint one up, one down cottage in a pretty village. The bath was in the bedroom up the rickety stairs, which gave us a laugh. Behind the cottage was a tiny courtyard with just enough room, for a small round table and two chairs, to be able to take tea outside.

We walked down a little lane between the cottages to a further extension garden belonging to the property and the hen house and run.  The hens are rescue hens and not up to giving much in the way of eggs just yet. Even though the cockerel makes enough noise he seems to be all noise and no oomph!

From there we continued down to the riverside on our short country walk.  Yes, it was peaceful and quiet and conducive to getting down to work without interruptions, except when parents come to call.

Lara was taking some time off to take us around the local villages where she has been looking at properties as she is keen to rent a property here from December.

We stopped off at Honeycote Farm which specialises in chilly peppers and herbs.  Some of the chilly peppers are so hot that they have to be handled with gloves on as the skin on our hands can blister.  Certainly not for me, I don’t like chilly peppers even when they are weak.  Bernard and I chose quite a lot of herbs to buy including a creeping sage, grapefruit mint and a chocolate mint. Some of the herbs were finished for the winter and in fact the farm closes from the end of October until the end of April. There were herbs there I had never heard of and those that I already had.

Whilst driving along, a flock, if that’s the name for it, of pheasants were strutting along the middle of the road. Not a care in the world, they continued right in front of the car, obviously having an afternoon ramble. Lara slowed the car to a crawl, expecting them to fly away, but no, they continued on ignoring this lump of metal on wheels behind them.  It was not until Lara tooted that they flew off with much indignation. After all they were there first.

Our last stop was Stow on the Wold where we stopped for tea after having a leisurely walk around this bustling little town. We had been to Stow before but many years ago.

The countryside around has some very beautiful picture postcard villages and it is easy to understand why Lara wants to try living in this neck of the woods. She wants to rent for a couple of years to see how much she likes it, having always been a city girl.

U.K. Campsites: close to Stratford upon Avon.

Our daughter Lara had won a bursary for women writers, to spend two months in a cute little cottage at Clifford Chambers, a small village just outside Stratford  upon Avon, in the heart of England, and we decided to pay her a visit. As the cottage was a one up, one down, we knew we could not stay with her, so it was time for “Roller” to have a spin for a few days.

Bernard had pre-booked into the Riverside Campsite at Tiddington for four nights.  We had thought about staying for five nights, however, the campsite was offering four nights for the price of three, but if we wanted to stay five nights we would have to pay for five nights!

We arrived on a glorious autumn afternoon at the reception at exactly five p.m. to be told that the office was closing and we would have to come in the next morning to fill in the documentation  The manager also told us that we should take advantage of the superb 99pence breakfast served at the campsite cafe.

Bernard went to investigate only to find that if we did not want the sausage and the bacon but just egg on toast, we would have to pay £1.50! The maths here just does not add up as we would have to pay more for less. We would not be partaking of their breakfast.

The campsite was clean,  had spacious, flat pitches and a taxi boat service into Stratford town centre. However, also on investigation, we found that the grey water outlet for motorhomes was not suitable for our model, as it had a drain cover without a handle to lift it up, and we could not straddle it because it was too near to a short brick wall surrounding the waste water outlet and tap.

One camper told us his caravan was pitched further along on another field and the only waste water outlet and w.c. contents disposal  for the whole site was this one. He therefore had to trundle his  water carrier quite a distance.  He said that he was young but felt sorry for older campers.

The reception had informed us of the Mop Fair being held that evening and the next evening in Stratford town centre. We phoned Lara and she came to collect us. We were envisioning jesters, Morris dancers and old fashioned stalls.

What a let down when we drove into town to find a 21st century fully blown mini Blackpool type fair instead.  The noise of the people shrieking, as they were thrown around on their rides, the machines mechanisms and music and the smell of the burgers and hot dogs was too awful  for us and we quickly made an exit to find a nice quiet restaurant.

This was Monday night. We would have to wait until Wednesday for our foray into Stratford.

 

U.K. Campsites: short break in Norfolk.

Having been in London for a few months and knowing that we were not going touring for a while, we decided to give our “Roller” an outing and take a few days holiday. We were going to visit our daughter Lara, who is at Stratford- upon-Avon for two months, but she told us that she had appointments elsewhere and would not be there, so we decided upon Norfolk.

We ended up in Hunstanton and stopped at Searles campsite, which, luckily,  were offering four nights  for the price of two. We were only going to stay four nights so that was serendipity for us.

It is an enormous site, with static caravans and touring spaces. It has shops, bars, indoor and outdoor pools, a golf course, hairdressers, entertainment, and a land train to the centre of town. Coast-hopper buses go from the entrance of the site to Cromer and to Kings Lynn. It is also close to a Tesco supermarket.  The bad thing was that the site charged a ridiculous amount of money for the Wifi. Quite outrageous. Luckily we had our “dongle” with us.

The reception staff were extremely friendly and helpful and, being just off season, were able to give us a choice of plots. The plot we chose had our own electricity and water and enough space for an awning to be erected, if we wanted to, in the enclosed pitch.

The ducks were very friendly too, coming right up to our door to greet us every time we opened up.

We were hardly on site, taking advantage of our pensioner bus passes and taking trips on the Coast-Hoppers. But we did go to the Monday and Wednesday night entertainment. The troopers were very good, worked hard, had many costume changes and gave us a good show. And it was free, except for the drinks.

I would not like to be on the site in mid summer, but then I don’t like sites to be too crowded.  Late September is perfect.  Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday we were blessed with great weather, and on Thursday it poured. 

Our trips on the buses were great, an entertainment in themselves.  The drivers were unofficial tour operators pointing out little things along the way, like the village with unusual topiary.  “Just on the left, coming up, you will see the pheasants and further along on the right you will see a herd of baby elephants”. On another bus trip we stopped and the driver said, “Why did the chickens cross the road?  Because the driver stopped to let them.”  And sure enough a family of chickens and fluffy baby chicks calmly crossed over the road. Everyone spoke to each other, whether they knew you or not. It was so definitely not London

We visited Cromer, Wells-next-the-sea, and Kings Lynn. Taking in the local sights, using the information gathered at the Tourist Offices and walked along the promenade from the campsite to the centre of Hunstanton, in and around and back again.

It was a good few days spent and our motorhome needed the run.  It also reinforced our realisation that we really enjoy being in our little home on wheels.  We shall look forward to taking it up to Stratford-upon-Avon in a few weeks time.

London Life: the Bank of England Museum.

The three granddaughters were getting ready to start the new school term, so it was one last outing with them this summer holiday and we decided to take them to the Bank of England Museum in the City of London.

“Oh no” the girls said as I bleeped when I went through the security X-Ray machine, remembering the fiasco at the Olympic Park. The man just laughed when I said it was my metal  hip bone. He was aghast when I told him about the last outing, and said it was not lawful to have subjected me to a strip search.

At the reception desk each girl was given a work sheet, suitable for their age, with a pen and were told that there was a prize when handing in a completed sheet.  That was a good start.

They set off on their quests to fill in their sheets, requesting help quite frequently as it was not that easy to find the answers to some of the clues. We really did have to read the information at each exhibit.

Unfortunately, the girls couldn’t lift the gold bar! It sat there in a glass case, with an opening for hands to reach in , but at two kilos it was just too heavy for them, and me!

We spent two full hours there. One of the younger ones said that it was far more interesting than she imagined it to be and would not leave until she had completed her worksheet. They were given postcards and badges as prizes and came away happy.

This museum catered for all ages, including adults and if Bernard and I were not so involved seeking answers for the girls we would have spent time listening to the audio and visuals. The architecture itself is something to take in. We will certainly return there.

And it is free.

 

Sorry about the gap!

We returned to England on the 10th May as my mother was very ill and she eventually died on the 4th June aged 97.

So no Tortoise Tales to tell I am afraid.

Bernard and I are still in UK and I will be using the opportunity to catch up on some stories from previous years, so do look at the side bar on the right to see what has been entered up.

London Life: a trip to the Olympic Park.

It was pouring with rain when Bernard, the three granddaughters and I arrived at the Olympic park bus stop outside Stratford Station in East London.  We were early but the bus was there waiting with its door open.

“Can we get on?”, we asked, as did the others arriving at the same time. But NO we were not allowed to and had to wait in the rain, although the driver and one of the tour guides were there on board.

Eventually we all clambered aboard, wet and bedraggled and none too happy. After a brief check by the tour guide who informed us that he wasn’t our tour guide, we were given some information leaflets and shown a video about the lead up to achieving the honour of being able to host the 2012 Olympics and how the work had begun in this designated area.

By then our very own tour guide arrived.  It was pretty obvious that this was all new to her as she begun to read from a script, which we felt sure she had not looked at before entering the bus.

The bus drove us around  the streets of Stratford and into the Olympic Park itself, where we had to dismount for security checks. The children were whisked away from us as Bernard and I entered the “X Ray” machines. I could hear the children calling “Grandma, Granddad” as they did not expect to be separated from us. Bernard went through but I “pinged”.  The woman called me aside and I explained it was my false hip-bone.

“Come with me “, she said and led me into a cubicle. “Do you have evidence of your operation? Does your scar show?”, she said and when I said it did she made me take down my trousers to show her. I was amazed and angry. Never had I heard of people having to strip to show an operation scar.

By then the children were not very happy as Grandma had disappeared. Not a good start to the outing that they had been looking forward to.

We re-boarded the bus with our tour guide who proceeded to read from the script, interspersing the word “iconic” when describing  each and every  building. The script was certainly not aimed at children as our trio kept asking us what it all meant and in fact found out more information from the leaflets they had been given. She also did not know her right from her left, which amused the kids somewhat when it was obvious that we should be looking in one direction but had been told to look at a pile of earth or rubble on more than one occasion!

It certainly is an enormous area, and so much has been achieved so far. It really is quite exciting that it is well on the way to completion in the time allotted for each stadium and site.

After leaving the bus at the end of the tour we walked up to the viewing platform, where we were told there was a cafe.  A nice cup of tea would have been welcome, but one look at the prices changed our minds. We looked around from the platform and at the small exhibition  available and called it a day.

In fairness, we did enjoy the tour but it was spoilt from the word go. The children did say that they would like to return in eighteen months time to see the difference and that they had learnt a new word…ICONIC!

Some prose: in memory of my mother.

She is at peace now

Her suffering is over.

She fought to stay alive

She fought to die.

What else was there to do

At ninety-seven years old?

 

They were angels

The Carers in the Home.

They gave not just attention

They also gave love,

Even through her tempers

Over the years.

 

And to us the family

They gave support.

How can we ever

Express our thanks

For caring for our mother

And for being there for us?

 

Her room is empty

The clothes are packed away,

There  was not much else

Except photos.

So many years

In Residential Care.

 

She was always there

For the family she loved,

In good times and bad

When she was able.

She is gone

But our life goes on.

 

She died on my birthday

After a long struggle.

We shall never forget her

Remembering the good years,

The songs she loved to sing,

The food she used to make.

 

Rest in Peace Mother Dear.

Gourmet news: induction hobs are great if you have the correct pans!

When we are plugged into electricity at a campsite we have been using a single hotplate.  It takes an age to heat up and we decided we were going to buy an induction hob, which works by magnetism, is instant heat and instant cooling and is cheaper to run than normal electric hobs.

Whilst in France in March we noticed at a supermarket an offer of a set of Tefal pans with a single detachable clip-on handle.  Perfect for the motorhome cupboard as there is very little space and the handles of the saucepans we had kept catching on the tambour door. We looked at the box carefully and we were sure that it stated  they were suitable for induction hobs. We bought the set and were very happy to use them on the gas or normal hotplate and left our “normal” saucepan set at home, in the box which the induction pans had been packed, when we returned for Easter.

Looking on the internet we noticed that single induction hobs were made in Germany. As we were intending to drive through Germany on our way to Eastern Europe we decided to buy a hob on our travels.

Whilst in Worms in Germany we managed to buy a single induction hob at half the price that we had seen  on the internet. That night we were not on a campsite with electricity and I had to wait until the next night to cook with the new induction hob. I took out a saucepan with clip-on handle, put some water in it and tried it on the induction hob. Nothing happened. I tried all of my saucepans; the pressure cooker was ok and so was the pasta/steamer saucepan. Ah well, at least I could use some pans on my lovely new hob!

When we returned to England in May we found a set of saucepans with handles that hooked over the pan, for people with gripping disabilities, which were perfect for the induction hob and stacked together with the handles facing down, so that they took up very little space.

The moral of the story is to carefully read instructions before purchasing, as it can be quite costly to have to buy two sets before finding a set that works!

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On the road: ferry operators want to charge too much at the kiosk.

 
Leaving Metz in the Moselle district of France, we sped on our way to Calais along the motorways.  It was Sunday and in France no lorries are allowed on the motorways so the roads were virtually clear. We really do not like using motorways but needs must; we needed to get back to UK quickly. 
We went straight to the dock, to the booking kiosks and investigated the prices. One wanted 167 Euros and the other 145Euros! We tried to barter but they are not allowed to reduce the price.  We told them that it is cheaper on the internet to which they replied that they knew that and we should go and book on the internet.
Off we went to a restaurant with Wifi availability and booked for the next morning’s 10 am ferry for 57 Euros!  How ridiculous.

On the road: Metz is a grand town.

Having left the Heidelberg district in Germany, taking the motorways on our speedy journey home, we arrived at Metz in the Moselle district of France late afternoon.
It had been a delightful journey through forests and interesting farmland and we would have been happy to have stopped and investigated the area if we had not the urgency of getting home to my very poorly mother. We must return to that part of France and Germany in the future and meander through as we like to do.
The Aire at Metz is outside the campsite, and as our engine had been well and truly charged up during the journey, we were happy to stay on the Aire. The notice on the gates of the campsite stated that it had free Wifi internet access, but as Bernard was unable to log on I asked the campsite reception assistant if there was a code, only to be told that we had to be staying in the campsite to use this facility.
We decided to take our Notebook with us into town and find a restaurant with free Wifi.  There is always a McDonalds as a last resort.
We have never been to Metz before and were pleasantly surprised. The old town has many 18th century grand buildings set around squares with canals running through, and being a university town was pretty lively on a Saturday night.

We found a restaurant which advertised that it had free Wifi and ordered a meal. Bernard could not log on at all and asked for assistance.  The waiter could not understand why it was not working and in the end we gave up.  Ironically, I had decided that I was going to cook pasta in the motorhome prior to our decision to go for the walk, and we had pasta in the restaurant which we agreed was not as tasty as what we think I would have cooked.

Ah well, that is life, no internet and a mediocre meal and if we had paid to stay on the campsite and cooked our meal we could have had free Wifi!  At least the Aire was free.

On the road: not quite Heidelburg

Having left Worms in Germany, our next destination was Heidelberg and we arrived at the campsite Haide, which is 5 Kilometres from the town, in the late afternoon as is our norm after meandering along and stopping at little villages.
The campsite is on the River Neckar and is quite a pretty site. We decided to wait until the morning to take the bus into town and settled down for the evening.
We befriended a young American couple who have been touring Europe in a battered old campervan, which they bought in the UK and hope to sell when they return at the end of their tour. We spent an interesting evening with them, chatting away about their life and background and exchanging  information on places we have visited and hope to visit.
Later that evening my brother telephoned me, informing me that our nearly 97 year old mother was very poorly. I telephoned the residential home in which she resides and was told that they “think she is slipping away” and  decided that in the morning we must start our return to London. 
After a restless night we were ready early to start our return only to find that the engine battery on the motorhome was flat! Why is it always when you really need to do something urgently that the odds are against you?  Bernard had turned on the ignition to open windows and the headlights were on, unbeknownst to him, which had drained the battery.  Luckily, we had decided to stay on a campsite with electricity and not at a  Stellplatz without, as we were able to put the engine onto a drip charge and two anxious hours later we were on our way.

Heidelberg must wait.

City news: Worms is well worth a visit.

The charge for the Stellplatz, official parking for motorhomes, at Worms in Germany, was only 4 Euros. It is only a short walk into the centre of town, but it was pouring with rain when we set off to discover it.

Worms has a very grand Cathedral, a rebuilt Synagogue, Jewish museum, the oldest Jewish cemetery and an attractive shopping centre.

There are no longer any Jews living in Worms, but the city have rebuilt the Synagogue exactly as it was, before it was ransacked and ruined during the last war, according to photographs and plans. On the site of the original community hall a Jewish museum has been built in honour of the renowned Rabbi Raschi who studied at Worms.  Rabbi Raschi wrote  a commentary on the Talmud, the five books of Moses, over 500 years ago which is still studied today by Jewish scholars.

The cemetery dates from 1067 and survived all the wars.  It was absolutely pouring down when we visited the site so did not walk all the way round as it is a vast site. There are thousands of graves the majority being very ancient.

Whilst we were in Worms we bought a single induction hob to use in the motorhome when we are plugged into electricity. More about that in another missive!

Campsite news: just opposite the Loreley rock.

St Goar is on the River Rhein in Germany.  It is at the very narrowest part of the river as it winds it’s way through Germany. The Rhein is the busiest river in Europe.  50,000 vessels ply the river each year and the stretch by St Goar is treacherous with the twist in the river and the rocks causing many an accident. The Loreley rock became famous with the song about the beautiful maiden sitting on the rock enticing the sailors in their little boats to their deaths.

The campsite nearest to the Lorelay Rock is the Loreley Blick.  Blick is German for view, and what a view we had. It is set right on the river bank immediately opposite the rock which is covered in greenery and trees. The barges and travel cruisers sail up and down day and night. On each side of the river run busy roads and railway lines with freight and passenger trains passing constantly.  So if you want a quiet rest then don’t stay at this campsite!  If however you want to discover the beautiful surroundings this is a great campsite.  They have recently built new shower blocks too.

It is only a short walk to St Goar village with the biggest external working cuckoo clock and the biggest beer Stein. It also has a small Jewish quarter, now as a memorial to past residents.

There is also a well advertised castle which is accessible by taking the village tourist “Train”.

A family run the foot and car ferry that crosses from St Goar to St Goarhausen on the other bank, which is not so commercialised. They too have a castle and also the road leading to the Loreley Rock site.

A well earned place to stop when travelling down the Rhein.

On the road:Lag B’Omer at Cologne.

Strolling along the River Rhein

Its a Sunday afternoon

The cyclists travelling in a line

Dogs running, children playing

All enjoying the sunshine.

 

Further ahead between the trees

A group of people gather

They’ve set up barbecues,

Lots of salads, drinks galore

Celebrating the festivities.

 

Men wear scullcaps on their heads

We notice as we draw nearer

Someone’s singing, someone reads

It’s Hebrew that we know

As we approach the man that leads.

 

“We’re Jewish too, and visiting Cologne,

We’re staying at the campsite

And we are quite alone.

Its good to see you’re Jewish

It makes us feel at home”.

 

He says,” Today’s a Jewish Holiday

Lag B’Omer is its name.

Join us in our festivity

Stay a while with us

Eat, you do not have to pay”.

 

We eat and drink and chat away

As best as we can try

In all the languages we can say

We cannot speak the Russian

Whose people are the majority.

 

They came from the Soviet States

When they were still the U.S.S.R

To seek asylum and make a place

To live together in Germany

In peace and harmony whatever race.

 

It was good to talk and while away an hour

Bernard drank some Vodka

A child handed me a flower.

But then the clouds came over

Umbrellas up, here comes a shower.

 

We started back as quick as we could go

The rain was heavy, then thunder

I hope it doesn’t snow!

It was a pleasant afternoon

But we’re soaked right to our toes!

Tortoise tales: a poem

I never thought I could

Write poems that were good

Or funny tales like Pam Ayres.

But sitting on a sunchair

At a campsite by the Rhein

With the weather more than fine,

Reading Pam’s little ditties,

Which are really very witty,

Gave inspiration to my thoughts.

To try my hand I ought

And write my very first rhyme

On how we spend our time

Whilst travelling in our camper,

Which we have named "the Roller",

Exploring exciting places

And meeting friendly faces

From France to Spain and Italy,

With all it’s famous history,

To Holland’s Keukenhof flowers

Where we spent many hours.

Like tortoises we roam

Content and slow in our little home.

There is so much more to see

How lucky can we be

To travel in this way

A new adventure every day.

A tortoise life for me!

City news: Cologne Cathedral hits you in the face!

We took the bus from the campsite into Rodenkirchen centre where we caught the train into Cologne, in Germany, alighting at the stop for the Cathedral.

You can’t miss the Cathedral as you come out of the station. There it looms, a Gothic masterpiece, right in front of your eyes amidst all the modern architecture surrounding it. Cologne was badly bombed in World War Two but amazingly, just like our St Paul’s Cathedral in London, it survived. Inside the Cathedral it is very dark and Gothic but massive and most impressive.

After taking in the Cathedral, we went in search of the Cologne Synagogue. The warden there was most helpful and showed us around, giving us lots of information. Pre-war, there had been a very large Jewish community which did not  exist post war. A small community returned and the synagogue, which had been internally destroyed, was rebuilt. Today the Jewish community of Cologne numbers over 5000 people but over 4000 of these came from the former Soviet States during the 1980s.  There are now three synagogues in Cologne, but the one we were in is the main one and the only “original” building.

Cologne Synagogue

Cologne Synagogue

This building also houses a kindergarten, an old folks club, Sunday school classes, a restaurant and banqueting facilities. The corridors are a mini museum too with glass display cases, pictures, old photographs  and a memorial wall.

Hearing that there was a restaurant, we asked if we could have lunch there and he telephoned through to ask if it was possible.  We were told to return two hours later, which we did.  We were the only people in the restaurant and a lunch had been prepared for us especially.

In the meantime, whilst waiting for our lunch, we visited the local Jewish “Deli”, purchasing meat and tasties to restock our fridge and freezer.

We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the centre of Cologne, with Bernard carrying a somewhat heavy backpack.

We returned to the campsite that evening absolutely exhausted, to find that there were preparations for a party to see the “May” in which would go on until the early hours of the morning!

We had no intentions of joining in and flopped into bed, sleeping soundly even though there were fireworks popping at midnight!

Campsite news: good for Cologne.

The four-star Campsite Berger at Rodenkirchen is right on the River Rhein in Germany  and an easy trip from there by public transport into Cologne.

We arrived at lunchtime and seeing a rather inviting restaurant on site we decided to partake of their food on the patio. It was an upper-medium priced restaurant with decent sized portions, and well worth a meal there at least once!

The owners were extremely friendly, the shower block superb, the view great and good walks along the riverside. Perfect for a few days stay with visits into Cologne.

Wandering around the campsite we could see that many pitches were set up for long term stay, and when enquiring, were told that because the campsite often floods during the Winter these pitches have to be set up every Spring. In fact the campsite has flooded up to 22 feet above river level.

Today the sun was shining, so no chance of flooding, we therefore took advantage of the weather and had our siesta and evening meal outdoors too.

 

On the road: Xanten is very pretty.

Our next stop in Germany was at a large Stellplatz at Xanten, just a short walk into town. We parked in the grass field surrounded by trees and shrubs and after settling down trotted off into town.

Xanten is famous for it’s Roman ruins and it’s working windmill, with bakery attached. It’s a very pretty town and with the weather warm and sunny we enjoyed a good afternoon discovering it.

We also enjoyed our rather good fish and chip lunch sitting outside the little cafe watching the German world go by.  

On the road: stopping at a German Stellplatz.

Our intention was to drive along by the side of the Rhein in Germany as much as we could, rather than on the motorways and so it was that we found ourselves on the first evening in Germany at a Stellplatz at Emmerich.

The Stellplatz system in Germany is quite sophisticated. These are stopovers for motorhomes and caravans, some with electricity, showers and toilet facilities for a nominal fee. If only the U.K. would provide more of these.  We have used the Aires in France and the Sostas in Italy when we are just staying overnight en route to another destination. A campsite is not always necessary.

The Stellplatz at Emmerich is overlooking the yacht basin with electricity and water and paid for showers.  It was a beautiful view, peaceful and calm, just what was needed after a long drive.

The electricity proved to be a problem with a low ampage and having “popped” it twice I resorted to using the gas cooker after all. 

We watched the sunset over the twinkling water at peace with the world.

 

On the road: flower festival at Haarlem.

The sun was shining, although it was a crisp day and we needed to be dressed warmly. Just the right sort of weather to enjoy a flower festival in Haarlem, near Amsterdam in Holland.

Two days earlier I had telephoned Pauline, who lived in Haarlem and  had been an Au Pair with us in 1972.  She recognised my voice immediately and we arranged to meet on the Sunday morning at the station.

She hadn’t changed much, just a little older.  She recognised us too. We had a great day together talking of old times. Naturally, Pauline knew the route of the flower festival and walked us through the streets where the floats were.

The theme was Europe. Various countries were represented in flower on the large floats.  England was sheep and shepherds.  The models of the sheep were more than life size and very cute and the shepherds were depicted just like fairy story characters.  The millions of petals used on these floats were from tulips, hyacinths and daffodils.  Every float was more beautiful than the previous one and the perfume as we walked the streets was overpowering.

A brass band dressed in green costume kept us entertained and the side stalls offered food and souvenirs. And the sun kept shining, as we kept walking and talking, until exhausted in the late afternoon we bade our tearful farewells and Bernard and I returned to our campsite.

On the road: Jewish museum at Amsterdam.

Zandwoort am Zee, on the Dutch coastline, is on the train line into Amsterdam. It only takes about half an hour from the campsite into the centre of Amsterdam, is relatively cheap and is a pleasant ride.

What greeted us as we emerged from the station was the thousands of bicycles parked, some in multi-story contraptions with hoists to haul the bikes  to the upper levels.  Amazing!  For a country with not that many people, where do all the bikes come from?

We have been to Amsterdam twice before and have visited some of the museums  previously. So after a walk around to re-orientate ourselves and a trip looking at the flower market, we made for the Jewish museum, which we had not visited on earlier visits.

It is housed in what was three synagogues linked by a courtyard. We thought that we would spend an hour or two there, but after a full afternoon we had to be reminded that they were closing and we could have spent probably another hour there. It was informative and moving; interactive computers telling different aspects of life in the city, pre-war, during the war and modern day, as well as fantastic displays, kept us fully occupied and interested.

We had broken our visit by enjoying beautiful apple cake (Dutch of course) in the museum cafe, which also serves snacks. A well earned rest before we continued to another section.

Later we purchased some travel books, in English from a shop in the city, on the Eastern European cities we are hoping to visit and being a sunny, if not rather crisp day, we sat on a bench in a square munching the sandwiches I had made that morning, watching the Amsterdammers go by, before returning by train to Zandwoort-am-Zee.

A perfect day.

 

Campsite news: good for Amsterdam and Haarlem.

We wanted to spend a few days exploring Amsterdam and Haarlem in Holland, and to enjoy the flower festival that was to take place and decided that a good place to stay would be Zandwoort by sea.  There are regular trains to Amsterdam and trains or buses into Haarlem, which are both short trips away.

We arrived at the first campsite we came to which was  Camping de Branding right on the sea front and luckily there were places available, it being “flower festival” time.

Zandwoort is a pleasant little resort which at this time of year was still pretty quiet, but it must be heaving in the summer with tourists.  Hundreds of beach huts were being erected and many food kiosks.  Apparently, they have to be erected each Spring and taken down in the Autumn as the large expanse of beach gets very flooded.

We stayed on the campsite for five days and used the facilities available and advice given by friendly, helpful staff.

 

On the road: beautiful Keukenhof Gardens.

We were so lucky to arrive the week that we did at the Keukenhof Gardens, as the bulbs were late this year, because it had been such a bad winter, and were only just opening.

What a blaze of colour greeted us, and the perfume of the hyacinths nearly blew our heads off! The gardens were wonderful  to walk around as they were so well arranged, with plenty of seats to allow us to sit and admire the vista before us.

There was also a variety of statues and art installations dotted about as we meandered through, so our eyes were always focusing on something new.

The pavilion with the orchids was just amazing, so many varieties and so many colours.

We were absolutely exhausted at the end of the day, even though we had returned to our motorhome to make lunch and have a siesta, having had our hands “stamped” for free return into the gardens.

We spent the night on a road, that we had noticed on our way in the morning very close to the Gardens, where other motorhomes were parked, which was beside a canal and  bulb fields. We awoke the next morning to a wonderful panorama.

“Sat Nav” information: essential for Dutch motorways around Amsterdam.

Driving from Breda towards Keukenhof, we got caught up in the spaghetti of motorways around Amsterdam.  We were so glad that we had set the Sat Nav, as at one stage it was not possible to move into the correct lane at an exit and went sailing off down the wrong road. Our machine immediately directed us and  after going round in circles, we think, we were once again going where we wanted to go.

The motorways were so busy, which for a country of cyclists, was surprising.

Campsite news: free free-range eggs

Just inside Holland, south of Breda and near a village called Hoeven, is a beautiful campsite set in the forest. On arrival, Bernard jokingly asked what time they served breakfast in the morning?  The proprietor handed us a box of 10 eggs and told us they were free-range freshly laid that morning and we could have them as a gift!  Free free-range eggs, what more could we ask for?

Naturally we ate some that night.  They were delicious and I have to tell you that free free-range eggs make better drips on Bernard’s sweater than ordinary eggs!  That’s no yolk!

Motorhome problems: water-pumps leak!

On waking up one morning to find a very soggy carpet is not the best way to start the day.  It was more than an upset glass of water.  There was obviously something wrong.

We traced the dribble back to the cupboard door, under the table, behind which lived the water-pump.  We had to take down the table and move everything from around the area for a clear floor and remove the carpet. On investigation, it was indeed the pump. Bernard had great difficulty unscrewing it lying on his front with his gammy knees and portly tummy and called for the help of one of the campsite wardens at Sewardstone Road, where we were staying.

He was really helpful and they both discovered that it was the filter and a flange.  Bernard had cleverly taken photos as the operation took place so that he would remember where everything went.  How great that we have digital cameras now.  In the past we would have had to have used a Polaroid camera for instant photos.

We took the bits down to Cranham  caravan suppliers on the Southend Road near the M25.  They were able to order the bits which would be sent direct to the campsite.  We would be without water for a few days, but this would not be too much of a problem at this campsite, with its great facilities.

Three days later, the bits arrived and Bernard once again prostrated himself. The photos on his camera proved invaluable. Everything was put back into place as usual.

However the leak was not cured and the very next day the procedure was repeated with Bernard applying silicone to the joints.  Still no luck and after three attempts Bernard resorted to going once again to Cranhams and bought a complete water-pump.  So trying to save money didn’t work, just aggravated Bernard’s knees and temper!

We have now had the motorhome for six-and-a-half  years so one water-pump in fairly constant use is pretty good going.

Campsite news: great for London.

Whenever we bring our Motorhome back to London we usually stay at one of the Lee Valley campsites in North London, or both if we are going to be in London for more than two weeks.  The campsite at Picketts Lock has a ruling of a maximum of two weeks stay, so we alternate with Sewardstone Road.

Both campsites are well appointed and have excellent, helpful, friendly staff. The shower blocks are warm and welcoming and spotlessly clean.

Picketts Lock has an advantage of being part of the Leisure centre with cinemas, golf and other sporting activities and is right on a bus route throughout the year, whilst Sewardstone Road has only a summer stop at the site but is set in pleasant parkland near to the sailing clubs of the River Lee.

It doesn’t take long to get into the centre of London by public transport from either of these sites, and there are many local shopping centres nearby too with a variety of restaurants of any nationality you can name.  The choice is yours!

Gourmet news: Kosher wines from Calais.

A little gem of an emporium run by a fantastic family is Le Chai Ardresien wine shop just outside  Calais on the St Omer road.

Paul and Bea and their amazing daughters Adah and Ruth have always made us  more than welcome whether we are spending 10Euros or 100!

However it is very difficult not to spend money there. The shop has an enormous selection of non-Kosher wines but also the largest selection of Kosher wines that we know of. They import Kosher wines from all over the world and export them to many countries.  Many of the wines can be tasted and they will even lay on special tastings for group trips. Take a look at their website www.vineyards-direct.com .

However the building does not just have a great wine section but also an even greater office surplus section. There is so much there, that just wandering around you tend to find things you thought you really didn’t need but must have! Ruth seems to find these things for you and reminds you that you really must buy it.  She also has the bargain of the day; bright ear plugs because she knows that we probably snore or something just as inane!

Parking is a doddle too, even for our motorhome, as they have parking out front, but also a large delivery yard at the back.

So if you are passing through Calais, just fifteen minutes up the road just before Ardres village, pop in and see them and mention our name.  You will find a warm welcome.

Gourmet news: great Kosher charcuterie.

One of our discoveries whilst travelling through France has been the Kosher butcher’s shop, Marcel, in Rue de l’Engannerie, Caen in Normandy.

All the varieties of his home made charcuterie are delicious ( I know, we have tried them) and his uncooked meats always look so fresh and inviting that even a non-meat eater might be tempted!

Only problem we have is parking nearby.  We once tried the paid car-park nearly opposite and seeing a pay slot, we fed in our credit card as we have done in some other car-parks in Europe. However, this car-park did  not need a credit card and promptly swallowed it!  There was no one around to talk to, so I buzzed the buzzer and kept buzzing until a voice spoke to me. He asked what number car-park we were in and eventually I found a number on the gate and told him and “Hey Presto” the card popped out! 

The fiasco did not end there as when we returned to leave, the motorhome got stuck trying to manoeuvre through the exit gates. After about 90 jigging backwards and forwards and avoiding the posts as best as possible, we were on our way  

Don’t try parking a motorhome there!  So Bernard usually drops me off and drives around until he strikes lucky.

It is well worth the detour we often have to make to stock up on delicious pates and sausages. Umm, my mouth is watering just writing about it.

Motorhome scrapes: yet another towing event.

Driving through on our way back to UK, we realised by the time we were nearly at Nantes that we had better find a campsite soon, and stopping off at the Aire we spoke to some people from southern Ireland driving a “5th wheel” vehicle who told us they were going to a really nice campsite at Heric, which is just north of Nantes.

We arrived at the site in the late afternoon and were told by the owners to park on a pitch near to the shower block.  Which we did. After settling down, the campsite owner came round and asked us to move, since the recent storms had waterlogged all of the grass pitches and he wanted us to park on a hard standing.

This was the week  when the west coast of France had suffered immense inundations and storms just 50 kilometres from where we had parked.

Once again, we needed to be towed off the pitch, this time with the help of a large lorry  and ten itinerant Hungarian workers. Everyone was so nice about it, apologies all round. It’s beginning to be a regular escapade with us it seems!

Once we had settled down, we discovered a restaurant at the entrance to the campsite.  The menu looked interesting, and decided to return that evening after resting from our trauma. It was a bit late when we returned for dinner only to find that the restaurant was chock a block full with local people. So we booked for lunch for the next day, when we had a really good meal.  We  highly recommend it.

People watching: dogs show up men.

Jarnac, in the Charente district in France. has a very spacious Aire for motorhomes right by the river, where we had parked for the night. However, as the previous week had been freezing the authorities had turned off the water facilities at the “Borne” machine, and we were unable to fill the water-tank as we had hoped. Having tried at another Aire with the same result, we realised that we would have to purchase numerous bottles of water from a supermarket and pour them into the tank.

But this morning the weather was sunny and crisp and we stood outside on the tarmac taking in the scenery surrounding us. Two cars drew up and parked fairly near each other. The doors opened and a dog from each car jumped out, ambled up to each other had a civilised greeting and stood there.  Then the male owners jumped out of their cars, ran towards each other, with hugs and kisses and cavorting around each other with lively gesticulations and laughter.

The dogs looked on with an expression on their faces which said,”These humans are so emotional!”

 

Motorhome scrapes: a prickly situation.

We were driving on the N340 in Catalunya in Spain towards the French coast. Bernard decided he wanted to drive along the coast road as his navigator showed a road.  I looked on the large scale map and could see that a railway ran between the N340 and the coast. 

I glanced down towards the coast and could see that quite a few of the roads were dead ends.  I told Bernard this and said we must look for the sign to the coast.  But Bernard being Bernard decided to take the next turning. 

It was a dead end of course! However there was a large car park there and Bernard said he would be able to turn around in it. It was very full and it being Spain people had parked wherever they could find a space, even on the corners of the lanes.

Bernard drove up and down with difficulty as there was very little driving space.  But when he tried to turn into the exit lane there was not enough freedom to manoeuvre. I would have to get out and direct. I could see a divorce about to happen.  We wouldn’t make it to our 45th wedding Anniversary on the forthcoming 1st April!

I climbed out of the motorhome and stood behind the vehicle getting caught up in the bushes which consisted of brambles and long fluffy grasses. My sweater was snagged on to a bramble and I had grasses in my ears, hair and down my neck.  I was not a happy bunny!

Bernard was shouting out of the window for me to direct him, but I could not semaphore with my arms as I was caught up. I disentangled myself and performed my duty but then had to go into another position to continue directions, for what I could see was about to become a 90 point turn, and promptly got caught up again. The procedure was repeated many times.

Eventually he was able to straighten himself  onto the exit lane and I climbed into the cab, sore and itchy only to have Bernard have a verbal go at me. He was also laughing so much that he was crying because he thought I looked like a demented animal offering no intelligible signals.

Having got that off his chest, I had a go at him and we continued on to France in silence.

Flying visits: our daughter’s birthday and book launch.

Lara, our daughter, was 40 years young today and to celebrate not just her birthday but the launch of her very first book, she decided to hold a party at the “Secret Garden” on the roof of Shoreditch House in the East of London.  The very reason for our visit back home, having been staying on the Algarve in Portugal for the last couple of months.

It was an amazing night. The staff at Shoreditch House were fantastic, everything went as arranged; welcomes, food, drinks. Lara had organised DJs, ballet dancers, doing “pole” dancing, as there was limited space, and singers.  All went as clockwork.  Over two-hundred people came over the evening. The atmosphere was electric.

And the book?….. 125 years of the Art Workers Guild.  Lara had interviewed and photographed 125 members of the Guild at work in situ, throughout the U.K. Her website: www.photofeature.co.uk shows the varied work she is capable of carrying out.

The book is a beautiful publication that she can be proud of.

And of course so are we!

The book has been shortlisted for the ‘AND/OR’ book awards. We will find out in April how she got on.

Flying visits: setting off the alarm at the airport security.

We were flying back to London, for just one week, from Faro airport in the Algarve to London, Stansted. It was the first time I had flown since I had my hip replacement operation in September as we had come over the channel from UK with the motor home on the ferry.

I was amused to find that my plutonium “bone” set off the alarm but the security woman was not exactly gentle in running her hands and then her  diagnostic machine over my body.  My scar is still healing but I survived.

On the return trip from Stansted, I once again set off the alarm but a lovely lady was far gentler especially when I told her it was a new hip! She laughed and told me that I will get used to it. 

Campsite news: Charolas at Ria Formosa, Cabanas.

The owners at the Ria Formosa campsite at Cabanas, near Tavira in the Algarve, are really welcoming people. They took over this site just two years ago and have re-furbished it to an extremely high standard. But its not just the quality of the fixtures and fittings that make this a fantastic site, although not scenically pretty as yet, it is also the quality of service that everyone receives from all the staff.

The owners have a smile and a good word to say to their visitors as they go on their daily walkabout and at Christmas they gave each “plot” holder a present and a card.  These little touches mean so much. However that wasn’t all.  They arranged a free entertainment night which should have taken place for the 6th January but the troubadours could not come until the 8th so the 8th it was.

A group of local “Charolas” singers and musicians sang traditional Portuguese Christmas songs whilst free drinks and snacks were handed round the fifty or so “campers” that were in the site’s restaurant. The owners made speeches introducing the singers and thanking us for helping to make their Christmas enjoyable.

If only all campsite owners were as nice as these are!

On the road: Three Kings parade in Huelva.

The rain had stopped and although overcast the weather looked promising and it was the morning of the 5th January. Bernard had arranged with some new friends we had made, on the campsite Ria Formosa near to Tavira on the Algarve, that we would go with them in their car over the border into Spain to Huelva to see the celebrations for the “Three Kings”.

We had been with these friends on Sunday morning into Vila Real de Santo Antonio and walked around the amazing nativity display taking up most of the community hall. It was the best we had ever seen with moving models, water and free entrance! Of course we had cast our coppers into the miniature stream.

We were soon in Spain as the campsite is near to the border. It was still early and people were only just filtering into the town, so we had no difficulty in parking and finding a cafe for some tasty Tapas. The lady in the Tourist Information Bureau gave us a map of the town and pencilled in the route the parade would take and estimated times of arrival at certain points. Time  enough for a walk about and a decent sit down with coffee and pastries in El Corte Ingles. We knew we would have to stand for a stretch later.

We found a good viewing spot just before the expected arrival at that position and waited.  The crowds grew in size, the children were beginning to get restless and the clouds overhead were ominous.  Would the rain hold off as every so often a few spots  landed on our noses?  But it was not cold, thank goodness.

True to Spanish tradition, half an hour late, the floats pulled by new John Deere tractors could be seen coming up the road.  The children in the crowd were now at fever pitch. There were many floats all beautifully decorated with mammoth paper mache models  and bunting.  Most had children riding on the floats dressed in keeping with the individual float theme.  They were kept very busy throwing, as hard as they could, wrapped boiled sweets and confetti. Many people used their umbrellas by turning them upside down to catch the sweets. It was pretty dangerous, these sweets can really hurt! One nearly broke my spectacles as it hit me and I used my map as a shield from then onwards!

There were a few marching bands too and all in all it was extremely enjoyable.  The very last float had gigantic models of the three kings,suitable scenery and people dressed in biblical attire. These were adults and torrents of sweets cascaded down upon us at great force, with squeals of delight or pain from the nearby spectators.

There were no riots, no fights , except the children over the sweets, and everyone was in a festive mood.  The rain kept off too, what more could we ask for? We even managed to find our parked car very easily and drove back into Portugal in the evening.  We did not stay until midnight for the  final celebrations in the town main square. Enough was enough until another year perhaps.

 

Jewish history: Faro Jewish heritage centre.

Shortly after arriving at Armacoa de Pera, on the Algarve in Portugal, I was reading the Portuguese English paper and noticed in the “what’s on” columns for 13th December a snippet saying if we wanted an invite to a Chanukah party just phone….. So I did and spoke to a charming man who originally hailed from South Africa but had been living full time in Portimao on the Algarve for a number of years.

He and his wife are instrumental in setting up the Algarve Jewish Community , centrojudaicofaro@sapo.pt. They have been organising events for special occasions since their arrival in Portugal. He is also the director of the Faro Jewish Heritage Centre, Cemetery and Museum, www.farojewishheritagecentre.org, and offered to take us there.

The Centre is the only remaining vestige of the first post Inquisition Jewish presence in Portugal and the cemetery contains marble gravestones from the period 1838 to 1932. The small museum has many artefacts and original furniture from an 1820 synagogue together with a video, “Without the Past”.

Outside the walls of the cemetery are eighteen fine cypress trees which were planted on the official reopening of the centre in honour of the Portuguese Consul, Dr Aristides de Sousa Mendes, who is also recognised in "Yad Vashem" in Israel.  During World War Two , whilst in Bordeaux , France, he saved the lives of thirtythousand people by issuing Transit Visas through Portugal and on to freedom. The Hebrew numbers are written as letters of the alphabet and eighteen in Hebrew is “Chai” which translated is "Life”. The trees are flourishing, a reminder that life goes on outside of the cemetery walls but to remember and pay respect to the the dead by visiting the cemetery.

The cemetery was in a state of ruin when it was rediscovered and a small team of people over the past two decades, led by our host, have worked exceedingly hard to bring it up to the fine condition it is in now.

Besides organising and catering for the Jewish events the wife is kept busy embroidering beautiful cloths which are for sale in the museum.  The cloths are to cover the “Challah”, Sabbath bread  and “Matzah”, Passover unleavened bread.

The Chanukah party on the 13th December was very jolly, held in our hosts’ apartment.  There were people there who were visiting just like us but also residents from all over the Algarve , some permanent  and some who come and go from their country of origin. Fried foods were eaten, candles were lit and songs sang to remember the miracle of the holy oil in the temple which lasted for eight days although there was only enough for one when the Jewish people were besieged.

Jewish visitors to the area are always welcomed by this enthusiastic couple. We intend to keep in touch with them in the future as we have enjoyed our new friendship.

Motorhome scrapes: “the sand is soft”she said.

Arriving at the campsite late afternoon at Monte Gordo, just in Portugal in the Algarve near the Spanish border, the receptionist  said, “ park anywhere but the sand is soft”. Was this a secret message we wondered?

Bernard drove around the site and was going to park on a pitch but a man waved him away. Just opposite in a dip was a good sized piece of land  covered in pine cones and needles.  He drove down into the dip and…….our motorhome sunk into the soft sand! We were nose down at quite an angle.

The men from the office came to have a look and decided it was too late in the day to do anything about it until the morning.  We would have to spend the night sleeping virtually upright! 

It was impossible to cook of course, so we went for a walk into town.  We were quite impressed with the town, decent promenade, pleasant shops and restaurants and a flat walk from the campsite.

That night when I “climbed up” into the bathroom and turned on the tap the noise was horrific and no water appeared, not even a dribble.  We were not out of water but the motor could not force the water uphill into the basin.  We spent an uncomfortable night and too afraid to get out of bed in the night and tumble down the aisle.

In the morning the men came with a lorry and a tow rope. Bernard dug away some sand first but the lorry could not budge the vehicle. They went away and returned with a strong cable.  Still no success, it would not move in fact it was setting in deeper. We were told that they would have to contact the council for a better machine.  We must wait. We decided to have a brunch in the camp cafe as we had had no breakfast of course.

Later on a JCB digger arrived. The driver was excellent at manoeuvring his machine. Firstly he dug away lots of sand all round and then he towed us off very gently and slowly. When we were well clear he then flattened the ground replacing the sand.

We decided not to remain on the site and when Bernard went to pay, the girl said,”I told you the sand was soft”. We complained that the soft areas should be cordoned off, and that having had time to wander around the site and speak to other campers had been told that many had been stuck and had been towed off too.  We were certainly not the first and by the looks of things were not to be the last.

Motorhomes reunited: being loyal to his first true love.

 

It was a beautiful sunny day when we arrived at the campsite at Armacoa de Pera in the Algarve in southern Portugal. The receptionist at the campsite office told us we could park anywhere there was a space.

We drove slowly around this large site, but suddenly our Rollerteam Granduca motorhome seemed to be urging us into a certain spot at plot 8. Bernard turned the vehicle into the space and there surrounding us were not just one but three Hobby 750  motorhomes! The very same model that our “Roller” fell in love with the very first night way back on the 14th October 2003. The engine was practically hyperventilating as Bernard manoeuvred the vehicle into its parking position.

“Roller” gave a deep sigh as Bernard switched off the engine as if he were thankful that we were not parked that close as to be a test to his loyalty.  We were not side by side, there was plenty of space between us all and he was safe to save his undying love just for his first true love. This was a real test to his loyalty.

The next morning one Hobby left and a few days later the second one left.  The third Hobby was camouflaged with a side zip-up awning  and a fence around the plot. “Roller” could relax and enjoy the sunshine.

Jewish History: Belmonte and Castelo de Vida in Portugal.

On our journey through to the sun we stopped at various towns including the two I have written about below.  We are so glad that we did.

Belmonte is a hill town in the centre of Portugal, and was the birthplace of Pedro Alvares Cabral, who discovered Brazil.

It once had a large thriving and prosperous Jewish population, but during the Inquisition and expulsion of the Jews in 1497, many fled the country, many were burnt at the stake and some, although having converted to Christianity, continued to practice the Jewish religion in secret, and were given the name Marranos. This small community continued throughout the generations and today, having rebuilt a synagogue there is a small but thriving Jewish community and a small Jewish museum.

Castelo de Vida is another hill town, with white cottages and steep cobbled streets, which is famous for the spring waters that run freely at the many fountains around the town. It also has the oldest surviving medieval synagogue in Portugal. Today there are no Jewish people living in the town and the synagogue has been made into a very sympathetic museum.

Both museums, Belmonte and Castelo de Vida depict the history of the Portuguese Jewish people. They both have rooms with memorial walls stating the names and ages of the Jewish men, women and children, some as young as 7 months, who were burnt at the stake.

It was a very moving experience visiting these museums. We take so much for granted in England in the 21st century.

On the road: hot chestnuts in Guarda.

students at chestnut festival
students at chestnut festival

Our first stop in eastern Portugal was Guarda , which at over 1000 metres above sea level is the highest town in the country. We parked in a square by a school and got out of the motor home. The wind was bitter and we quickly returned to put on more layers of clothing and cover our heads and ears.

The lady in the tourist office reassured us that it was fine to park where we were overnight as it was a weekend and to make our way up the steep cobbled streets to the main square where they were holding a chestnut festival.

The main square was jostling with people, and the aroma of roasting chestnuts was too much for us. We had to have some. We bought an enormous bag of piping hot nuts for just 1Euro. We were amazed as only a few days previously we had bought just 12 chestnuts for 2Euros.


chestnut festival in Guarda
chestnut festival in Guarda

We walked around the stalls which were selling local produce and all had magnificent displays of chestnuts, squashes and fungi. There were so many varieties and so many colours. Autumn is a very colourful season. There was a large marquee in the square and on entering we saw people sitting eating at trestles tables. These had been pre-booked of course and it was not possible to order any food.

Suddenly, through the throng of people in the square, a group of musicians appeared. They started to play. Here, up in the mountains of Portugal , was a very good Dixieland Jazz band. We were all tapping our feet and singing along, we in English, of course. We could see, grouping themselves around the square, young people dressed in costumes, some quite outrageous.

Later in the afternoon, these students paraded through the streets making lots of noise, and thoroughly enjoying themselves. It was the first festival of the educational year and they were determined to let rip. No fights, no drunkenness, just fun.

In the evening we ate in a restaurant recommended by the local policeman we had been talking to. It was an excellent fish restaurant at a reasonable price. In fact it was cheap, because the servings were so enormous that we were given a doggy bag of the salmon I could not finish which was sufficient for two very full sandwiches for our lunch the following day!

We left the next morning with happy memories of Guarda.

Fun with a Sat Nav: getting lost in Bilbao.

It was pouring with blustery rain and approaching 3 o’clock on an autumn afternoon. It was time to stop before it gets dark. Bernard had set the Sat Nav for the Soprelano campsite which is very close to Bilbao in Basque Spain, and we were very near.

The motorway was so different to the one we had remembered from the last time we came to Bilbao. Typically, the Spanish were still busy building new roads as you blinked an eyelid. The navigator could not cope and told us that there were no satellites available! The arrow on the map on the machine was floating in mid air.

We would have to resort to the old system of trying to read a map that was certainly not up to date and nearly having a divorce as driver and human navigator disagreed! All this in the middle of a rush hour.

We drove round and around, on and off of new roads. The sign posts were not always that clear, showing a diversion but not exactly the direction to go.

The rain was teeming down and the wind was ferocious. It was also getting darker. We knew that we were near to the site but there were too many new and unmade roads. Eventually we asked some pedestrians who directed us. It was a different approach to the campsite to when we last came.

To crown it all, the campsite was closed but some people passing by kindly telephoned the number on the door and the manager eventually arrived and let us in. Last time there were just four chalets and plenty of space for campers and tents. Now there was just a small parking place at the very bottom of the steep site as it was all chalets. Everything was closed, but the manager rigged up a “Heath Robinson” electric cable for us and charged us 20Euros for this privilege!

If it wasn’t dark and pouring with rain we would have driven off, but needs must. We had intended to take the train from the village into Bilbao the next morning to revisit the amazing Guggenheim museum. The train station was in the same place, but our ability to walk the mile to the station on these unmade approach roads was severely hampered. We opted out of that choice. So after a night of being rocked by the wind and rain and the thought of paying this guy another 20Euros for nothing we moved off early.

The navigator still could not cope with the new road system and it wasn’t until we were way out of Bilbao in the morning rush hour, driving towards Santander, that it came to life again.

Bilbao must now look to arranging some safe parking facilities for caravans and motor homes if they want visitors to stay. The Guggenheim museum will lose out too. What a disappointing visit.

On the road: musical motorhomes again

The drive into Cahors in southern France was spectacular, gorges and sheer drops and beautiful autumn hued trees. The sunset through the trees was beautiful. We were really looking forward to spending the night here. It would be another free one as the “Aires de France” book listed a motor home stop right by the river. However on arriving at the Aire, there were only allocations for three parking spaces and these were taken up. We drove to the end of the parking and spoke to the Dutch driver of the last vehicle. “Sure, you can park in front of me. I am only staying the night and will be off about 6a.m. if that’s o.k. with you?” he said with a big grin. I told him he would have to drive right through us, if that was the case.

We walked over the bridge into the town, a fair walk for me so soon after my hip replacement operation. There were beggars and drunks everywhere and we were not too impressed with the architecture either. What a disappointment after such a stunning entrance. We caught the free “Navette” bus back over the bridge and returned to the parking. There were more motorhomes parked in front of the first two motorhomes and another parked on the waste water disposal spot. Everyone was now jammed in.

The morning was fun with everyone waiting for the one parked on the waste water spot to move first. Then there were big friendly discussions in quite a few languages as to who wanted to move when. Vehicles moved in and out of spots as we jostled to go because one of the motorhomes was not ready to go yet but he was in third position of exit (not third parking spot, please note). It was a bit of a slalom, going around him but we managed without any arguments. We travellers are a very friendly people!

On the road: playing musical motorhomes.

 

We had decided to stop for the night at a campsite at Neufchatel in Northern France. The navigator led us to the road, all very well so far. A Netherland registered motorhome approached us with both the driver and passenger waving furiously to us. “How very friendly”, we thought as we waved back. However when we arrived at the campsite it was closed and we could see by the tyre marks that the other motorhome had turned itself around on the small grass parking area. That is what all that furious waving was about; trying to tell us it was closed.

It was now gone three o’clock in the afternoon and we really did not fancy trying to find another suitable spot for the night. Bernard manoeuvred the “Roller” into a good parking position on the grass and I proceeded to make a cup of tea. Oh, oh, another motorhome turned up. It was a British registration. The driver said that they had stopped here in August on their way down to Portugal and were told that the site didn’t close until 31st October.

I switched off the gas, made everything safe and Bernard repositioned the vehicle so that the other one could park next to us. I then switched on the gas again and just as the kettle was about to boil another motorhome arrived. A very large French man was not at all pleased that the site was closed as it clearly stated in the camping book the site closed 31st October. I made everything safe again and the two vehicles repositioned themselves once again to make room for the French one.

The French man then proceeded to move his vehicle back and forth over chocks and grip pads until he was satisfied that he was perfectly positioned. Did he know something we didn’t? We would know in the morning.

Just as he finished and we were all happy, a Dutch camper arrived. It was not possible to fit another vehicle into the parking area but we all agreed that he could park across the front gate. We were all leaving in the morning about the same time we decided, so it should not cause any problems.

In the morning the Dutchman was off first, then we waited for the Frenchman to remove his chocks and grip pads and he moved off, followed by the other English people and then us.

All very civilised and friendly and luckily no need for chocks and grip pads.

Home news: successful hip operation.

We had been home for a while because I was waiting to have a replacement hip operation and unable to walk even down a road without difficulty and in great pain.

On 3rd September 2010 I had my op.  Even when recovering from the anaesthetic I realised that I no longer had pain in my hip, back or knee. Just a healing pain.  Wow! Amazing!

The physiotherapists were very strict and made me stick to an exercise regime and before long I was able to walk up and down stairs and allowed to return home.

My advice to anyone suffering from hip problems is to have the operation. It has given me a new lease for life.

People watching: elegantly matched in Deauville.

It was a grey morning, with an hint of drizzle in the air as we walked into the centre of Deauville, Normandy, France. The market was in full swing and buzzing with people.

My hip was troubling me so I decided to sit on a bench and watch the world go by. How elegant the majority were, including the dogs! Approaching me was a tiny dog with a very twitchy nose being carried in a basket. He was dressed in a superbly tailored shirt with matching peaked cap. Even the basket cloth matched. I glanced at the elegant hands holding the basket and then up to it’s owner, a tall middle aged man wearing the same outfit to match the dog, complete with peaked cap. Yes, he too had a very twitchy nose!

They say owners grow to look like their dogs, the only exception this time was that the dog was tiny and the man was very tall.

People watching: fun on a bus.

 

We were at Villagio dei Fiori campsite at San Remo in Liguria, Italy with a bus stop just outside the entrance. It was a beautiful day and we decided to take the bus into Ventimiglia nearby. We did not realise how funny this could be.

Opposite us a very well dressed woman, with immaculate make up and hair-do, was somewhat put out when a very scruffy youth sat down next to her.  Her expression was of disdain. He spoke quietly to her and very soon they were deep in conversation and she was smiling and chortling away.  How we would have loved to know what he had said to affect the woman so.

The next stop, a woman with a dog, case and carrier bags alighted.  She put her case and carrier bags down on two seats half way down the bus and returned to the front to buy her ticket from the driver, clutching her dog under her arm.  Having paid, she saw a seat near the front and leaving her goodies where they were, sat down. The next stop quite a few people got on the bus and as there were no seats available, stood in the aisle, glowering at the case and carrier bags, but nobody asked who they belonged to or could they be moved.

The next stop an old man, dressed all in white with a royal blue large satin bowtie and wearing enormous earphones attached to a wire leading into his trouser pocket, got on.  He closed his eyes and started singing quite loudly whilst jigging away to the music, quite oblivious to everyone laughing at him.

We noticed a nice looking couple nearby taking deep breaths and turning their heads away from the woman sitting opposite them.  The expression on their  faces showed that their fellow passenger had a personal hygiene  problem. The woman got off a few stops later and the couple sighed and wiped their faces with lemon wet wipes, whilst trying to breath normally again.

All this in a twenty minute bus journey. We just love travelling on local transport to people watch.

Motorhome Hints: have the correct keys with you.

We were staying on a campsite in Hertford England for three weeks, and because we were so near to home had our car with us.  We both had sets of keys for the motorhome and for the car.

It was a fine day and we had the roof vents open. It was tea time so I made a tray up and fetched it outside.  There was sudden gust of wind and the side door slammed shut.

Bernard took out his keys from his pocket, but they were the car keys.  I looked in my pocket and took out , you’ve guessed it, car keys!

We looked around the motorhome. Everything was locked except the drivers window was open just a couple of inches and we could see a set of motorhome keys hanging on a hook above the settee on the passenger side.

But how to get at them? We needed a fishing rod with a hook.  Bernard asked around and one of the wardens used to work for the AA recovery service and was used to  fishing out keys.  He made up a rod and hook from a bamboo pole and wire hanger and with immense patience, slowly extricated the keys.  There were moments when we all thought he would drop the keys.

"All in a day’s work ", he said as we thanked him profusely.

"Why didn’t you check you had the correct keys?", Bernard said.

"And why didn’t you?",said I.

Motorhomes reunited: a moving love story.

Our Rollerteam Granduca motorhome seemed to have more life to it as we left the Newbury Motorhome Show. Perhaps because it had the electronic innards reprogrammed to hopefully give us a better fuel consumption and more pull on the hills, or because we had fitted a smart new back-box onto the bicycle rack instead of the tarpaulin covering the stand-alone “room” in its carry bag and fold up chairs. But I like to think it was because  “Roller” was on his way to see his true love, the Hobby, that we first came across on 14th October 2003 at the beautiful and romantic Aire de Lauregais on the Canal de Midi, south of Toulouse, France.

We had originally set off at the beginning of October, having recently retired, in our Hyundai Santa Fe car for a three month trip in Europe. By the time we arrived at our friend A’s farm in the Aude ten days later we were thoroughly fed up with constantly carrying cases in and out of Hotels each night and morning and eating every meal in different restaurants.  We told A that we were considering buying a motorhome.  He was hoping we would join him in converting his farmhouse into five Gites but understood our desire to see a bit of Europe first, and suggested that we visit the showrooms just north of Toulouse to buy one. We could then register it at his address as we  were going to use his place as a “pied-a-terre”.

We parked at the Aire that evening in October both exhausted. I had negotiated the purchase transaction and temporary insurance entirely in French and Bernard, who had in the past driven a white van, had not test driven this vehicle , which was left hand drive, a little longer and wider than a white van, and had just driven on a main arterial road and then the motorway at rush hour.  We needed the break. 

Having bought some bread, cheese and water at the motorway service shop, we returned to our motorhome to find that an English registered motorhome was parked next to us.  It was a cute Hobby of a certain age but in great condition.  We spoke out loud in English and sure enough the door to the Hobby opened and our neighbours emerged. R and J invited us in to have drinks and with our bread and cheese we chatted long into the night. Although second hand it was the Hobby’s maiden voyage with her new owners and our Roller’s very first trip too.  We discussed the fixtures and fittings, the Hobby was more “Harrods” whilst the Roller was up to date more like “Ikea”.

The two motor homes spent the night side by side as we were all too tired and imbibed to continue onwards. Bernard and I just collapsed fully dressed onto the mattress of our fixed bed.

The three month window has turned into nearly six years to date and whilst travelling we have seen very few Hobbys.  Each time our Roller has given a little sigh, yearning for his Hobby.

So it was with great excitement that he sped on his way to our destination near Blandford. R and J have recently bought a bungalow and because they have gutted it, they have been living in the Hobby parked on the driveway. Roller’s engine gave a jump when he saw her as Bernard reversed up the drive to park next to her.

The two motorhomes spent the night together, side by side, vowing that this romance would continue.

Once again we humans chatted late into the night, reminiscing about the many fascinating places we had visited and the scrapes we had been in since that meeting five and a half years ago. Far too many to relate now. This reunion spurred me on to start this Blog about our journeys since October 2003. The stories below are in date order and to start from the beginning, please go to the The Trail Begins’.

Updating the Blog

A little of bit of a gap here … hang on just updating the journal…. check back in a few weeks/ months/ who knows….

Do please go to the The Trail Begins’  because this is where it all began.

Frances

Market news: great antique market at Isle sur la Sorgue.

We were up bright and early and having left the campsite we arrived at Isle sur la Sorgue by 9am as we needed to find a suitable parking spot for the motorhome.

The town was buzzing and full of stalls. The River Sorgue surrounds the town, with rivulets flowing through. The attraction of the town are the working water wheels. It really is very pretty. There were lots of antique shops and arcades as well as the stalls in the streets.

We spent a very enjoyable time walking around, as, with no wind and on the flat my hip did not pain so much.  We really must return there some day when we return to Avignon. 

Market news: Broiderie at Villeneuve D’Avignon.

It was pretty windy when we set off from the campsite with our new Japanese young friend, Aki. It was a stiff walk up the hilly road to Villeneuve D’Avignon. The little town was bustling with lots of stalls and plenty of people.

It was fun having someone else to discuss all the “bargains” with.  She was quite impressed and asked lot of questions.

As the morning wore on I became increasingly tired, battling with the wind, hills and my hip, I could have not been much fun. I once again decided to return to the campsite and caught a bus back.

Bernard and his new companion caught a bus  in the other direction to a town called Isle sur la Sorgue. When they returned, they enthused about it and also had discovered that the next day was to be a very large Antiques market.

Aki was moving on the next day and would not be coming with us and we decided that we would leave the campsite in the morning, go to Isle sur la Sorgue in the motorhome and then move on. So we said our fond farewells to Aki.

Town walks: Avignon is beautiful.

As we were leaving the campsite a young Japanese girl asked us information about Avignon and discovering that she was alone we invited her to join us. We slowly walked over the bridge across the Rhone into Avignon.  Not THE bridge of course, that is only half a bridge, we were surprised to see! We really did not know that it was not a usable bridge and expected to stand in the middle of it singing, as one does.

The architecture in the town is really beautiful. The Papal Palace is well known but also so many others are just breathtaking. However, my hip was playing me up so walking was really slow. We spent the morning taking in the sights and visiting some of the buildings, including the Poets House.

After a Vietnamese lunch I realised that I needed to return to the campsite as I was in a great deal of pain, leaving Bernard and the young girl to continue their walk.

They returned later for miso soup and rice cracker snacks in our motorhome. We arranged with her to go the next morning  to Villeneuve D’Avignon, on our side of the river, as they had discovered there was to be a “Broderie” market there.

Campsite news: good for Avignon

The nearest campsite for Avignon in southern France is Camping Bagatelle, which is on the other side of the River Rhone, opposite the Papal Palace. It is just a short walk.

The bus stops are nearby too to take you either into the heart of Avignon, or in the opposite direction to other towns nearby.

The campsite is well appointed and not very expensive considering its position, but not very beautiful.

The beauty is on the other side of the river of course.

It was just right for our short stay in the area.

Fun with a Sat Nav: this time Florence, Italy

By the beginning of May 2004 we found ourselves driving into Italy. My husband, Bernard, was most distressed to find that his navigator was telling us to go to the nearest road and was showing a blank screen.  What could be wrong?  Only that the programme he had in the machine was for England, France and Belgium, and he needed to change the programme for one that had Italy details!  That done, it was working again, to his satisfaction and embarrassment.

A year later, with a different navigator we had another near scrape.  We were making  our way in our motorhome to a campsite just north of Florence that had been recommended to us by some people with a smaller vehicle than ours. On entering the outskirts of Florence we had the choice of visiting the campsite that we had visited previously at Piazza Michaelangelo or trying this one.  The Michaelangelo site is quite expensive but in a fantastic position overlooking Florence, but we decided to try the other one and set the navigator. 

Eight kilometres is not too far from Florence and there is a bus from nearby the gates of the site. The sign posts gave two directions to the village but no indication of distance or problems. We obeyed the the machine. The road became narrower and narrower.  We came to a small village with a square where buses were turning round.  We should have taken heed but continued onwards.  The road now became single lane with no pavements either side. The walls of the buildings were very close and by now it was dusk.  I decided to go ahead on foot and guide Bernard through the narrow gap. The cars behind tooted and flashed their lights as we very very slowly wound our way round this bit of road and along the lane.

We climbed steadily upwards. Suddenly there was an ambulance ahead, but besides our passenger side was a ditch.  There was no way Bernard could move over.  He stopped, causing more tooting from behind. The ambulance fortunately was able to move over his side as he did not have a ditch beside him and went round us.

We then came to a very sharp bend on a steep incline. Bernard moved back and forth and was able to eventually reverse into an opening facing the direction we needed to take, and with a great rev chugged up the incline. 

The eight kilometres took us an hour and a half and by the time we reached the campsite it was dark.  The manager said “You came by the navigator’s route didn’t you?  We have had to tow people up on occasion.  It is only fifteen minutes the other way although it is a longer route!”

To crown it all, it was more expensive than the site at Piazza Michaelangelo.  We left the next morning by the easier  route and made our way to our first choice to spend another few days soaking in the glory of Florence.

There have many funny experiences with our navigators over the five and a half years we have been travelling in the motorhome, but they have saved the marriage. I am sure there will be plenty more as we continue on our travels.

Motorhome Hints: always carry keys.

Bernard and I were usually pretty good about carrying keys on our body, either in a bag, in a pocket or hooked onto a belt. However on this occasion neither of us checked the other to see if this was so.

We were on a campsite in  Italy and Bernard had been sorting out the "garage"  under the rear fixed bed of the motorhome. He put everything back very neatly and wearily flopped onto the sun-chair. I had been hanging up the washing nearby on our fold-up airer and I too flopped down.

We both fancied a cold drink. The doors were shut, in fact locked, as it was a busy site and we were not able to keep our eye on the doors whilst we were carrying out our chores.
"Have you got the keys?", asked Bernard.
"No, you usually have them in your trouser pockets".
"But you usually have your ones on you too".
"I am only wearing shorts and T-shirt and no belt or pockets today".

What to do? No windows open just the roof vents and they have anti-fly screens fitted. We looked around panicking slightly. Then Bernard looked at the external "garage" door, it was unlocked.

He removed everything from it again and laying on his back he raised the bed up with his hands whilst I crawled in and squeezed myself through the narrow gap he had managed to make.  Climbing out into the room was very difficult for me but fortunately my back was not paining me that day as it would have been impossible  for me to attempt it.  Bernard could not have climbed through as I could not hold it up at all, let alone with a narrow gap!

I opened the door, took out some well earned cold drinks from the ‘fridge and after satisfying our thirst we proceeded to load the garage once again.

Will we always remember to keep the keys on us?

Updating the Blog

 

A little of bit of a gap here … hang on just updating the journal…. check back in a few weeks/ months/ who knows….

Frances

venice

Fun with the Sat Nav: snowy Rioja.

The navigator machine was completely baffled as we drove through snowy Rioja district, and kept telling us to go to the nearest road. Spain is busy building new roads everywhere and the route we were on was obviously a new road. In fact as we were driving parts of the road were not yet covered with tarmac. It was quite nerve-racking driving along through the snowy mountains, for although the roads had been cleared of snow, they were often temporary road surfaces around hairpin bends. Not knowing what was around the corner was an experience we shall not forget too soon. But it was beautiful, countryside and weather, as we made our way to Santander.

We stopped at a café for a mid morning snack and filled ourselves with tortilla, a potato omelette, and tea and coffee for just 2 Euros each. It’s just a little too far to popover there for a snack again!

After a beautiful ride through snowy mountains, we arrived at Santander.

Walking along Santander promenade, eating hot churros (a Spanish long donut), with the sun shining, and admiring the grand nineteenth century buildings is a wonderful way to spend a late afternoon in early March. We had managed to park on the sea front and were able to have a brief stroll along this elegant promenade before night set in. Everyone was taking a late Sunday afternoon stroll too, it was obviously the thing to do, especially if you had a new outfit to show off or even a new fur coat. We were dressed in jeans, and “motorhome” casual, but we did not feel out of place, after all, the best designer clothes at the time were ripped jeans.

The centre of the city is not as attractive, as it was severely damaged in 1941 and has been rebuilt, but the sea front is quite breathtaking with the mountains as a backdrop. We spent the night at our parking spot before moving off in the morning.

 

Motorhome scrapes: our poor damaged “Roller”

We were told that there was a market at Sagunto, just north of Valencia in Spain, a town which is famous for its Roman remains and that it was attacked by Hannibal in one of the first acts of war waged by Carthage on the Roman Empire.

The market was in the port area and we bought lots of tasty food items. However, on returning to our parking spot, we discovered that something large and dark green had bashed into the back and side of our motorhome. The right side had damage at the rear under bed storage (the garage) door, ripping off one of the hinges, also to the window and surround and had taken off the top reversing light. The plastic bumper was damaged at the side and rear and was lying in pieces on the floor. Also the motorhome was streaked with dark green paint, where the lorry had scraped alongside it. We gathered up all the pieces from the ground that we could find belonging to our poor “Roller”, and left Sagunto without visiting the town and with not very good memories. We were very upset.

We needed to stop at a campsite and try to sort out the mess our motorhome was in, so I looked up in our books where there was a campsite nearby. We were following a Dutch motorhome and they stopped at a lay-bye, so we stopped too and spoke to them. They had been given directions to a good campsite, just after Canet de Mar, at Malvarossa and were just checking how much further they had to go. We told them we were going to follow them.

Very soon we arrived at Malvarossa and found the campsite which was right on the beach. Many people over-wintered there and the facilities were good. We settled down for the night and nursed our “wounds”.

Bernard started the repair to the damage to the rear of the vehicle. Various campers came to view our damage and to give sound advice as to how to make the best temporary repair, whilst drinking elevenses tea with us. After lunch, we had more visitors, who helped Bernard with the repair, whilst I brewed up more tea.  I knew I was needed.

The next morning we went into Sagunto to the supermarket.  Whilst wandering around the town we found an ironmonger and purchased parts for the motorhome repair. Bernard had bought with him the “garage” door broken hinge, and the ironmonger advised us as to where to go to have it straightened out; a window shop. The window maker did a very good job on the hinge and refused to charge us, and was more than grateful when we tipped him a few Euros. Then it was back to the site as we really did not feel too happy with our motorhome parked in Sagunto. The roman ruins will have to wait for another visit.

We stayed on the site all  the next day, Bernard continuing with the repairs, whilst I, when not needed as mate, managed to have a good read and a little sunbathing.

Our poor “Roller” was somewhat patched up, but moveable and looking fairly respectable. It looks like we will have to visit the manufacturers in Italy for a proper repair. Our vehicle is not even a year old and looking like a war torn soldier.

 

Motorhome problems: trouble with the boiler.

On returning from England to Alicante, we collected our motorhome, from the long term parking, and it being late afternoon decided to wild camp for the night at San Paolo where we had been before. The rain was pouring down when we awoke and we were soon on our way to Valencia. Three campsites near Valencia were closed, and it was still raining. We needed to find somewhere for the night, so we drove along to the sea front and just out of town we found a suitable parking spot. There was torrential rain, thunder and lightening. Was this supposed to be sunny Spain? It was miserable and our central heating broke down. We had plenty of gas, but no heat and no hot water unless we boiled it in the kettle. We went to bed with a hot water bottle.

In the morning we decided to return to one of the camp sites we had stopped at yesterday as there was a motorhome service garage attached to it, which we hoped would be open. It was, however they were unable to deal with the problem but directed us to the main dealer for our boiler, which so happened was a short distance north east of Valencia.

The dealer was very close to where we had parked the night previously. It was situated on an industrial estate and they recommended the café on the estate for lunch whilst they set about repairing the boiler. We had a good cheap lunch, and I was the only female in the café other than the tea lady, just lots of men in boiler suits!

The problem was a computer card which had burnt itself out. Everything is so technical nowadays. The repair was under guarantee, and after the forms were completed we were on our way.

England again: twelve days of rushing around.

 

A busy twelve days were spent visiting family and friends, dealing with finance  and being stuck in traffic jams. We visited the camping show at Birmingham, which was very interesting, and were stuck in an enormous traffic jam on the way back which was not.

At the camping show we spoke to the British importers of our motorhome, about dealing with the small repairs that were needed to be carried out under guarantee and the replacement of the damaged skirting board that occurred in Toulouse, France. They were not at all keen to do the work and suggested we return the motorhome to either the showroom from which it was purchased, or to take it to Italy to the manufacturer. We were not best pleased at that news.

It was wonderful to have been back in London, but once again we knew that we were ready to return to our nomadic lifestyle by the end of our stay. This concerned me somewhat; was this the life that I actually wanted to live? I thought that after a few months of travelling in the motorhome I would be itching to settle down, but instead I was itching to carry on. Perhaps it was because so far I had not found a place where I really wanted to live. I wanted more than just sea and sun, I wanted a lifestyle calmer to the one I had been living but with some culture. I could not see myself joining the morning tea parties and “Happy Hours”, or playing golf or bridge day after day. I had not found my ideal place just yet, but when would I?

Motorhome security: cautious wild camping.

The day was spent travelling after we had left the campsite at La Zubia near Granada. By the evening we were near to Elche, but not near enough and it was getting dark. We stopped at a service station, parked up and went into the café there. We were not happy with the look of the clientele and decided to move on. We had been so lucky with our “wild camping”, because we were cautious and did not want to risk trouble. We had heard some horrific stories and were not keen to become another statistic.

We stopped at the next service station, and by then we were hungry and tired and it was dark. The restaurant looked good and inviting. We were well satisfied with our meal and were content to park up for the night.

We left early the next morning having had a peaceful night.

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